14th - Large mammals

We were woken up at 0730 and after the usual morning routine we had breakfast at 0800-0900. It turned out to be a fully stocked buffet which easily could outclass several good hotels I’ve visited in the past. Very impressive.

We had been sailing all night and at this point we had come close to the northern point of Spitsbergen and at around 1130 we cast anchor at Smeerenburg, a former whaling station. Meanwhile we were being briefed on the mudroom, procedures when going out on zodiacs etc. We also had any equipment we would be bringing on our trips cleaned for foreign objects that might interfere with the local fauna.

The narrow passages we passed by before anchoring were beautiful but there was only limited wildlife. We did pass by a walrus relaxing on a piece of ice, a couple of birds, a few minke whales and bear tracks. No bears – just their tracks. But tracks indicated that there would be some nearby.

Walrus.

Lunch was had at 1200-1300 and again it was an amazing buffet; large selection of salads, 3 different dishes and several desserts. Once again amazing!

Around this time a scouting party was sent out to check the surrounding area to make sure we wouldn’t get surprised by any bears when going out on the zodiacs. At around 1330 the first half of the passengers went out (me not included) and had a tour to see the ruins from the old whaling station and a few walruses relaxing on the beach. The whaling station was active 1619-1657 and the whaling back then was so intensive that the local population has never recovered.

When the group was on the way back to the ship we were informed that a polar bear had been spotted on a nearby piece of land. All 6 zodiacs went by at a slow pace getting close-ups (it was standing all the way down at the water). When they finally came back to the ship and let the rest of us go out it had started moving away and further inland. Luckily it didn’t go far before it started walking parallel with the water so when we came out we also had plenty of chances to some good shots. It was estimated to only weigh 2/3 of what it was supposed to and with a large wound on the hips (a guess/estimate was that it was made by a walrus – and a bear going for a walrus is a very desperate bear) it did not have a lot of chances to survive the season.

A not very healthy polar bear. Hopefully this will be the only one in this condition we'll see!

Finishing watching the bear we continued with the original plan; we saw what was left of the whaling station which was nothing more than the base of some of the blubber ovens and trying to get some good shots of the walruses without scaring them away. The plan was to circle the area but after having camped out near the walruses for a while we were told we had to return to the ship as the bear had been unplanned (obviously) and had taken time out of the schedule. To be honest I didn’t mind much about that.

Being back at 1815 we were introduced to our captain and at 1900 we had dinner just as fantastic as the one yesterday. Afterwards we had a presentation/q&a about bears after which we were free for the rest of the night. The q&a was voluntary, too, but it seemed as all showed up for it anyway.

Another ship doing similar cruise as us.

At 2120 we crossed the 80^th degree latitude. It was announced with the horn and there was much rejoicing. I will – like most others – doubtfully ever come further north and despite being this far north we could be standing outside, no gloves or hats and jackets unzipped. Long live global warning?

Unzipped at the 80th degree.