Nordic marathons

My runs have brought me to places far away from home, and while it has resulted in amazing trips it sometimes also makes it quite the undertaking outside of the run itself. It would be nice that I at least once in a while managed to plan a bit more convenient trip to find a run instead of having to fly half way around the world.

So a new project has seen the light of day; running marathons in the capitals of the 5 Nordic countries - Copenhagen (Denmark), Stockholm (Sweden), Oslo (Norway), Helsinki (Finland) and Reykjavik (Iceland). I am considering also including the 3 autonomous territories Faroe Islands (Denmark), Greenland (Denmark) and Åland (Finland).

The 3 latter are a bit harder to do; while the Faroe Islands have an annual half and full marathon, Åland sometimes cancel their run due to lack of interest and Greenland, well - there is an annual marathon which I would consider an extreme run which I'm not to keen on, so I may have to try and find a half marathon instead if there is one (which I believe Nuuk has annually).

Some have already been run, some have recently been planned and others are still up in the air. The schedule is currently as follows:

Copenhagen - May 2019
Stockholm - May 2025
Oslo - September 2025
Helsinki - TBA
Reykjavik - TBA

Faroe Islands - June 2019
Greenland - TBA
Åland - TBA

A small project compared to my other runs (past and likely future), but sometimes you just need to scale down and relax. Which I know is a bit of a contradiction when talking about running marathons. Oh, well. 

13th – Conclusions

I had nothing planned today other than maybe wander a bit before returning to the airport in the afternoon. This resulted in me taking full advantage of the fact that breakfast was served until 1100 and checkout was at 1200. And a quick and easy online checkout meant that I didn’t have to queue up behind everyone else when I left the hotel for the last time just before deadline.

Inside the Uspenski Cathedral, just after service.

From there I walked north until I reached Linnanmäki, Helsinki’s amusement park. There were some rocks just outside and I realised that it was probably the only place where I could get a slightly elevated view of the city when not behind glass. I realized that there was no entry fee to get into the park so lacking any plans I took as stroll inside. While it did seem busy it did not look like many people were queueing up for the amusements. I got the impression that people came here to enjoy themselves, meet friends and maybe get something to eat. Had I gotten a wristband that would get me unlimited fun the amount of waiting would have been quite limited.

A slightly creepy abandoned-looking building I passed by on the way back from the amusement park.

Afterwards I realized it was inhabited - they were outside in the garden opposite from where I took the photo...

Returning back to the centre around 1600 I realised I couldn’t come up with anything else to do so I, a fair bit early, took the train back to the airport. I arrived, had a walk around and entered the lounge area. I might have had 4 hours to wait but in that time, I had free WiFi and food so time wasn’t completely wasted.

The flight home went as planned, no extra layovers in Stockholm this time, and returned home in one piece.

The weather forecasts seemed quite unreliable when I went to Helsinki. Every single one I read said 10-15 degrees, overcast and occasional rain. Instead I got 20-25 degrees (Sunday at times more), not a single cloud and no rain. I was not prepared for that and while I appreciated the very nice weather I wish I had brought a pair of shorts. But due to the weather it was really nice walking through the city, especially when on Suomenlinna and it had clearly brought people out onto the islands. Spending time out there during overcast and bad weather would have made the entire day much less enjoyable. 3 nights there might have hit the limit for how long you can justify being there but the ease of getting to the centre from the airport makes it easy to recommend going there even if it’s only during a layover.

As usual the full album can be seen here.

12th – Slithering about

The alarm went off as yesterday at 0800. Snoozed it once and then turned if off and the woke up an hour later. Woops.

I got myself ready, had breakfast and then left the hotel to take the boat to Suomenlinna 15 minutes away, the main island of four that are connected with bridges to each other, with a large defensive installation built by the Swedes, taken by the Russians and in the end given back to the Finns.

The island furthest south, i.e. the one furthest towards the sea, has the majority of the walls and cannon placements. Despite the fortification having been converted to a tourist destination it is still being actively maintained as it has been given the rank of UNESCO Heritage Site. You walk around and get some great views of the installation and people come over here when the weather is nice to do picnics, visit the 10m long sand beach or soak up rays on some of the many patches of grass or rocks. Another thing that reflects its attraction to tourists is the relatively large number of restaurants and cafes. In addition to that they also have a church, brewery, prison, school, day care and library.

Some of the many buildings now re-purposed to normal apartments.

Submarine Vesikko.

One of the other islands, Pikku-Musta, has a navy school which means there are plenty of uniformed personnel (conscripts, officers etc.) walking about, and it’s fairly common to see groups marching the pathways on the islands. While this is a very touristy area this is a serious training facility and there are parts of the islands that are strictly off limits.

The main barracks square, had the regular drill just moments earlier.

Finland's "special" lion.

King's Gate.

Due to the many garrison buildings and living quarters for military members and their families that are no longer in use they have been converted into ordinary housing. There are quite a few people living on these islands and you regularly see signs reminding guests that you are walking in or entering a residential area.

At one point I found a secluded spot where there were plenty of birds to spot (had I brought my long lens I could have spent most my day here!) and trying to get a better angle to two birds I took a few steps from a rock onto soft ground. This resulted to my surprise in a snake suddenly quickly slithering out and away. Of all the things I had expected to see when visiting Helsinki, a snake was not on the list.

I would never have expected that I was to come to Finland if I wanted to see snakes in the wild.

The cathedral towering over the buildings when returning to the mainland.

After spending up towards 6 hours walking around I returned to the main land where I had a short break back in my room before going out for dinner. Sushi buffet for 14 euros, and while it wasn’t on the same level as the stuff I got in Singapore (I didn’t have any expectations of that, either!) it was – at least – as good as the mainstream stuff back home in Denmark. And for just a fraction of the price? Yes please!

I returned to the hotel, almost rolling, I’d admit, and had a few drinks at the bar while seeing Finland beating Canada 5-1 at hockey. They must feel a bit better now after we beat them – to everyone’s surprise – 3-2 just a few days ago.

11th – A rocky day

After a late morning, it was hard work getting out of bed and breakfast had a large selection, I left the hotel a bit past 10 and starting going towards the western part of Helsinki.

I came by a large building that turned out to be the parliament building, a small lake with a lot of people spending their time walking, running and generally just relaxing. I reached the winter garden and the Olympic stadium which unfortunately was wrapped in construction so I arched back and came by two odd churches: one that had been dug into a rock and the other a very new wooden construction that from above had the shape of an egg.

Parliament building.

A green spot in the city.

The rock church was basically a circular hole been dug or blown into a large rock near the centre of the city. They had left the rough surface and drill holes all around so it was very rustic. There was also drains all around the walls for when water occasionally would run down the rock face which helped giving it a very cave-like feel. The ceiling was centred by a massive cobber circle made from app. 22km of copper strips. The church was very different and charming. The wooden church was much smaller and had a very calm to it. The interior construction was like the exterior; very minimalistic. With how the light came in from the ceiling it had a very serene feeling about it.

The roof of Temppeliaukion Church, cut into the rock.

The walls are bare rock.

The roof consisting of 22km small cobber strips can just be seen.

Kamppi Chapel.

Ceiling in the Kamppi Chapel.

Coming back to the city centre I started going east until I realized there was not much else there. I returned and unintentionally timed it perfectly for me to return to the harbour minutes before a 1½ hour tour of the archipelago departed. A lot of small islands and every single one is pretty much covered in trees. In between there are houses peeking out and located in some very attractive locations. The views form them must be very nice, especially during the summer and nice weather.

Uspenski Cathedral.

Returning to land a bit past 1600 I walked about a bit before taking a break back at the hotel. I left for dinner at a place a fair bit west; a small homey restaurant where I had a fish platter, a wiener schnitzel with sausage, bacon, sauerkraut and potatoes (basically “pig in 3 different ways with sides”). For dessert pancakes – small ones. Apparently in Finland you make pancakes small, not large thin ones, but small chubby ones.

I returned to the hotel and concluded the day early just past 2200.

10th of May – I am not Finnish… ed

Everything went according to plan; I checked in yesterday, I arrived and went through security and ended up in the lounge, still disappointed with the selection at the buffet but free food and drinks is free food and drinks.

I boarded the plane and noticed the lack of passengers. We were two people in the economy plus section which on this flight was 8-ish rows long with 6 seats in each row. Apparently not a too popular route. I was in the front row and as I therefore wouldn’t be allowed to take shoes off or read anything while the fasten seatbelts signs were on I asked if I was allowed to move to the empty row behind me. I was told “go head – we’re are only missing one passenger and it’s one-in-a-million chance she is sitting there!”. I think we all know what happened next; an out of breath girl boarded, reached “my” row, looked at me and got very confused. I apologized profusely and told her I could move but she just – like me – moved to the next empty row.

We arrived in Helsinki in good order at 1630 and easily grabbed the train to the city centre. I walked around a bit and found my hotel, checked in, and left again to familiarize myself with the surroundings.

The waterfront in Helsinki.

I found a one of the highest, if not highest, rated restaurant, Olo, in Helsinki/Finland but it was the kind with no menu outside. The reviews were very positive and it was quite interesting reading the menu on the website but having to pay almost 400 euros for the pleasure I gave it a big pass. Just around the corner from the there was another restaurant specializing mostly in Finnish dishes with a much friendlier approach to prices so in I went.

I love the fact that almost all streetsigns had names/directions in both Finnish and Swedish.

Helsinki Cathedral in the evening sun.

To start with a plate with 10 tastings of classic Finnish starters (various fish, potatoes, salads and meats) from where I continued with a long-braised bear, something I would admit was a bit pricey but I wanted to try it out. I wasn’t too impressed. It seemed it was braised, pulled apart and shaped into a block to be served. I did taste very good but if someone had served it and told me it was braised elk I wouldn’t have questioned it. I guess I had expected something more… bear-like. For dessert rhubarb crumble in a generous portion with cloud-berry liquor.

A tram passing by the train terminal in the night.

Had a wander afterwards before finally returning to the hotel around 2330.

4-day weekend city visit

The 10th of May is Ascension Day and a national holiday in Denmark. That is a Thursday – and I get the following Friday off. Apparently not even management can be bothered returning to work for just one day before the weekend.

This gives me 4 days in a row to do stuff – like going on a quick trip. One shouldn’t let four days in a row go to waste so obviously I am going on a short trip somewhere. If I go on a 3-day trip to Tallinn, why shouldn’t I utilize my 4 days in a similar manner?

10^th – 13^th of May

City visit to Helsinki, capital of Finland. Not much else to say. Fly there, check into the hotel and then spend a few days exploring the city and checking it out before flying back home on the Sunday.

… and that’s pretty much it.