23rd-24th - Kruger, part 1

The 23^rd was eventless. We had a 7 hour drive getting into South Africa and our next camp site. As usual the long drives on the trip were eventless and even crossing the border this time wasn’t a big hassle. Or we are just getting used to it. In any case, nothing to report.

The 24^th we had our first full day in Kruger. The day was spent in the truck, going from a northern entrance into the park and getting quite a bit south into the park to get to the site where we would be spending the night. While the drive was interesting enough in the sense that there was wildlife to look at and look for, the drive itself was just, well… driving.

The sightings today were quite a big mix of various animals. We saw plenty of elephants – many more than I would have expected. While in some areas the elephants are threatened, they are apparently have so many in Kruger that there are discussions on whether or not they should be culling some of the families. They are reaching a point where the number of elephants is reaching an amount where the areas will not be able to sustain the large number of herds walking around. It is quite interesting, especially considering what you usually hear about elephants in Africa.

We saw two small hyena cubs lying in small hole. Despite not being very pretty when grown up, the two cubs still managed to get some awww’s from the truck.

And we saw a cat today, more precisely a leopard. Not very visible, but it was definitely there! The 5 five was thereby crossed off for the trip (even though I would have preferred seeing lions in the wild and not just in the sanctuary).

Getting to the camp site – big fenced in area with supermarket and good toilet facilities – we had an early dinner as we would be leaving again at 1930 to go on a night drive trying to find animals that tend to be more active during the night than day. We were given two projectors which would then be used to light up surrounding areas in an attempt to spot anything that wasn’t a rock. Yes, we saw plenty of impalas. And a bunch of elephants. No cats, but a group of hyenas playing around. Generally the drive could be considered a success.

Zebras.

Saddle-billed stork.

Yellow-billed hornbill.

Buffalo.

Two hyena cubs.

You might not be able to see the leopard, but the leopard has definately seen you!

The leopard got tired of the attention and got up to walk away.

Elephant under the moon.

Hyena.

22nd - Horny animals

We had a late start today with a 0730 breakfast, so Jaco informed us that as the sun would be rising at 0610 we would have plenty of time to see the sunrise before any of the day’s plans took place. Silly me was the only one to get up early. Walking around in total darkness with only a head lamp, eyes looking everywhere (reflected from the light) and having been told that there was a high density of leopards in the area made the solo morning walk one of the scariest things I had ever done. Combine that with complete overcast and lacking a good viewpoint I was back in my tent at 0620.

A couple of hours later we were picked up by the day’s guide (Ian) who took us for a hunt for rhinos in the Matobo NP. The two cars driving us around stopped a couple of times so that we could continue on foot in an attempt to locate and get close to the rhinos. The white we should be able to get as close to as 2-3 meters, while the black… not so much. We were told that seeing them from 100 meters away they would either be seen running away or towards us (and not in a polite welcoming way).

Ian was very competent and could hardly stop talking when had warmed up. He was obviously very dedicated to his work, something he had been doing for almost 30 years. Africa’s version of Steve Irvin, basically.

When exiting the vehicles he was very clear about the fact that we could very quickly end up in (extreme) danger if we saw any black rhinos when on foot, but he was also very good at telling us of what to do if something went wrong. Basically be quiet, stand still and crouch down. Be a rock. Only in extreme situations should we ever have to run, and he pointed out it would be very clear if he ever wanted us to do so. None of this ended up being necessary, though. He had plenty of experience in all situations with rhinos and could kill the myth that they cannot make sharp turns when running at top speed. He could from his own practical experience confirm that they could make sharp turns; as much as making turns with a radius of less than a body length. You wouldn’t think it when looking at them, but they are very nimble.

He also informed us that up to 28 poachers were caught or killed (shot) in the NP. Not since the establishment of the park, but every month.

After two walks we were driving down a road and when turning a corner we suddenly saw three white rhinos scurrying away from the road. We jumped out of the cars and slowly followed Ian into the bush, following the rhinos at a careful distance. We ended up app. 20 meters away from them until they decided that enough was enough and ran further away that it was practical to follow.

Satisfied with the sighting we had lunch and afterwards we were brought to a cave where bush men had been making drawings that were thousands of years old. As with the rhinos and wildlife in general Ian was very passionate about this.

Following, we went to a village to meet the locals. Here we were introduced to the elder, an 80-something year old dressed in a leopard’s skin belonging to a leopard he ended up killing in a fight. He was a great character. Generally all the people in the village (30-ish, quite a few small kids) were very friendly and we had a great time there before we had to take our leave again.

Back at the camp Ian had a couple of anecdotes from years back (note; lighting a lion’s tail on fire is NOT the correct way to get rid of a lion when it’s sitting outside your tent when you want to sleep) before taking his leave, had dinner and prepared for tomorrow.

Today’s joke; Jaco admitted that the sunrise wasn’t until 0710. Oh well, I’ll be saving money on tipping, obviously.

The mood is set when entering the park.

Family of warthogs.

Peek-a-boo!

Hello there!

Is that a big horn you have or are you just happy to see us?

Cave paintings. The drawings at the top are 3-ish meters from the ground.

Ian getting passionate.

Leopard.

Haha, he was a great character!

21st - Onwards!

The first day of the second part of the trip was spent driving. Another long day of 9 hours was required to get us to the next camp site, so no time was wasted in the morning. All and everything got packed, a few previous group members showed up to say goodbye and off we were heading for the Zambia/Zimbabwean border.

The border took slightly longer than the previous crossings, but compared to what one could expect from the crossing it went very, very smooth. So lucky us!

In the afternoon we reached our destination where we are going to stay for two nights. Tomorrow we will be going on a game drive the entire day and mixing in a couple of walks trying to get close to the park’s rhinos and hippos. Hopefully the leopards will also make an appearance, but not too close.

If anyone wasn't aware; the moon.

Second confirmation

... and shortly after this year's first confirmation the first trip of the year (for now...) was also confirmed.

12th of July

Departure from Copenhagen

13th of July

Arrival in Johannesburg after a short layover in Frankfurt. Looking forward to it - second leg is with an A380!

14th - 15th of July

Going north into Botswana we aim for Khama Rhino Sanctuary, including a visit of nearby villages Serowe and Maun.

16th of July

Further north we end up at the Okavango Delta where we will spend time in a bush camp where we will be going on game walks and getting around in mokoros, a traditional dug-out canoe.

17th - 18th of July

A quick trip back to Maun where we pick up any luggage we didn't bring to the delta and we continue on to Gweta, located in Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, apparently a great place to see some beautiful sunsets. We continue on to Chobe National Park which can boast of having the largest elephant population in Southern Africa.

19th - 20th of July

We cross the Zembezi river and enter Zambia to go to Livingstone. Here we will have access to various activities, including the Victoria Falls.

21st - 22nd of July

Crossing into Zimbabwe, going to Bulawayo which will function as our base when visiting Matobo National Park. We will be exploring the national park by both foot and open safari vehicles. Among many other things it will be possible to see both white and black rhinos.

23rd - 25th of July

Going back south back into South Africa we spend a single night in Musina before going to Kruger National Park.

26th of July

Return to Johannesburg.

27th - 28th of July

Return back home, same route as before. Including the A380.