31st – Trient – Chamonix

The plan was to start early today as the weather forecast said there would be a risk of thunderstorm. You do not want to get caught out in the open with no protection within reach when lightning starts hitting (it’s a shocking experience, I’ve heard). So at around 0730 we left the refuge in pouring rain. The plan was to reach Col de Balme as soon as possible and from there look at the current weather and decide whether to take a quick or slower path down into the Chamonix valley and catch a bus or train depending on timing back to the hotel in Chamonix.

This was a perfect example why you shouldn't trust the time estimates on the signs placed along the route.

The climb up to Col de Balme was a fairly long one but when crossing the tree line it had stopped raining so that helped a bit. Arriving at the col any potential thunderstorms looked far away so we decided to take a detour past a refuge which had, according to rumors, an amazing dessert platter.

On arrival we found out that because we left our refuge as early as we did in the morning we arrived before the kitchen opened. Luckily they were still able to make the platters so it was a success after all. If it hadn’t been for the threat of thunderstorms we would have used this place for lunch. Instead, after finishing our platters (coffee/chocolate, nut/honey cake, apricot crumble, ice cream, chocolate mousse, whipped cream) we were soon on our way again towards the bottom of the valley.

Around two hours later, at 1345 we arrived at Montroc train station. Perfect timing as the hourly train towards Chamonix departs at minute 48. Half an hour later we were back in Chamonix, ending the trek. We had a late lunch before checking back into the hotel and had much needed showers. The weather had just been improving all the time since the rain ended in the morning but at this point the weather quickly degenerated and we got a massive shower with lightning. It didn’t last long, though, and this was the only time we saw the forecast fabled thunderstorms.

When returning to Chamonix Aiguille du Midi decided to show itself for just a short moment.

Back in Chamonix, waiting for (late) lunch.

We went out for dinner in a restaurant located in a cellar (so much lovely cheese in a cheese fondue – strange) after which some of us went out for a few drinks. It was almost a perfect recipe for a joke; “Two Brits, a Kiwi and a Dane enters a bar…”. Returning to the hotel at 0130 was a bit later than I had planned for myself.

30th – La Fouly – Trient

We left the refuge around 0800 to take a bus to Champex (with a change in Orsiere). The second leg of the trip was a steep ascent, obviously saving us from walking that part. At around 0930 we were ready to start today’s walk.

Last time I did this we only took a bus to Praz de Fort (app. half way to Orsiere) after which we walked the long ascent to Champex and continued where we started the day’s walk and the rest of the day identical. I would like to point out that we were not the only trekkers taking the bus on this leg of the trip. While part of me feels like we cheated taking the bus this far there were another part of me screaming “Oh thank [deity]!”. Because not only was that part steep, until we reached our lunch stop we were not doing much else than ascending and ascending some more – and that lunch break was not far after reaching Champex.

So due to the long bus ride we only had a couple of hours of ascent before we came out of the trees and out on the open, traversing with a view that was a bit marred by clouds, heavy ones, even. At around 1300 we reached a small farm, Bovine, where we had an amazing rösti with cheese and bacon followed by delicious pie. Our guide said that it wasn’t nearly as busy as usual (there were plenty of benches and tables outside that should have been occupied but were empty) which might explain the huge portions of potatoes/cheese we had. It was fantastic and also very heavy, but luckily the rest of the day would be mostly downhill. When leaving the place there were not many who weren’t burping potatoes and cheese.

From here we spent around 3 hours descending to Trient, the town with the pink church. Rain had been promised for the afternoon and we did get quite the occasional drizzle. Not enough to drown us but enough to be inconvenient and make most of us don waterproofs. 

It’s obvious this place is in a town; plenty of very hot water and wifi though some people seem unhappy with the pillows in the room. Fortunately, it seems we are alone in a 16 bed room (being a group of 8 that’s not bad) so it’s possible to sneak an extra pillow to your bed. Because, I’ll admit, the pillows are a bit thin.

29th – Rifugio Bonatti – La Fouly

We left the refuge at around 0800. Bonatti is quite large with a capacity of 100+ guests, but despite that breakfast was done without crowding the buffet during the one hour it was open.

One of the employees at the refuge looks exactly like the actor Zachary Quinto. The likeness is uncanny. I almost suspect it’s him (the actor) who spends his time off from acting.

It was quite chilly in the morning, walking in the shade with a cool breeze added to it. Finally coming out in the sun helped immensely, though (as usual). We spent the first hour or so descending to the bottom of the valley. Here we had a short break before starting the long ascent to Grand Col Ferret, the tallest point on our route. On the way we passed by Rifugio Elena where we had another short (and needed) break.

Reaching the col after the long ascent rewarded us with sun and a clear view back into Italy and into Switzerland with the border going straight along the col. With the time being around 1300 it was the perfect time and place for lunch, with lunch packs from Bonatti. Disappointing buns, some chocolate and a huge muffin.

We spent the first couple of hours descending 

which meant we obviously had to go back up again.

Having a break at Grand Col Ferret, the highest point of the tour.

The descent into Switzerland was never very steep but rather a gradual descent over a long period. After app. 3 hours we arrived at La Fouly and our final destination for the day. And once again, when entering the premises, I had flashbacks from the last time I was here.

Before Courmayeur my calves and thighs were almost constantly sore. Now, after the rest day, despite my worries, I have no issues with them other than normal exhaustion. That’s pretty nice, to be honest.

When doing the trek you tend to bump into the same people doing the route. At the refuge here in La Fouly we sat down with an American couple (Nicole & Shane) we have been meeting almost daily. They are very friendly and they apparently met 10 years ago on a 5-month trek on the Appalachian Trail and now were on their honeymoon. Both of them are in very good shape but Shane is muscular. So much so that when they were posing for a photo at Rifugio Bertone and he flexed I blurted out “Oh god I feel so small” which made the guide standing next to me almost fall over laughing. 

Return to Chamonix!

As mentioned previously I have been laid off since the beginning of March. Being home all the time having nothing to do makes me restless despite my lazy nature and completely ignoring the fact that it has been barely a month since my last trip (but that is so looong!).

So, a bit impulsively I decided I wanted to return to Chamonix and re-experience the beauty of the Tour du Mont Blanc trail. The trip will be no different than the previous so I will not go into much detail. But to give a quick overview of the schedule it looks like this:

22nd of July

Departure evening from Copenhagen and arrive late in Geneva with a transfer to Chamonix.

23rd of July

Meet up with the group in the evening, giving me a day by myself in Chamonix which will likely end up result in going on a walk somewhere.

24th - 31st of July

Leaving Chamonix and following the route Chamonix - Les Contamines - Les Chapieux - Courmayeur (Italy) - rest day in Courmayeur - Val Ferret (Italy) - La Fouly (Switzerland) - Trient - Chamonix.

1st of August

Leaving Chamonix and flying home.

29th - Trient – Chamonix

Today, coming back to Chamonix was a relatively short day.

After getting lunch at a supermarket we left for what would be the last day on the trek.

The plan was simple enough; ascend to Col de Balme and from there descend to Montroc in the Chamonix valley from where we would have a 20 minute bus ride back to the hotel. Simple as that! Well, did I forget to mention the 1000m ascend to the Col with same weather conditions as yesterday?

It was a tough walk, no doubt, but when we finally arrived at the Col early noon we had a magnificent view of the valley and Mont Blanc (unfortunately clouds where covering the summit). The Col was also the border between Switzerland and France. Here we had our lunch break, a comfortably long one, even. Afterwards we did a brisk descent; the knowledge that the hotel was not very far probably added a little to the speed.

Even if it meant that the trip was over, it was nice being back to the hotel; Wi-Fi, real showers and real beds. Despite everything it felt good being back.

Morning view in the Alps.

Jules enjoying his lunch.

Our guide working hard.

The view from Col de Balme with Chamonix in the middle.

Mont Blanc

28th - La Fouly – Trient

Today was really, really hard.

With that out of the way I can start from the beginning.

The day started as usual with breakfast and lunch packs and we soon left to ride a bus for app. 20 minutes. We had a gentle walk of a couple of hours before arriving in Champex. A small town, but it had a nice small lake at its center where we chose to have a break. The town was surrounded by mountains making it feel like it was completely isolated. From here we were told it would be a walk with gradual ascents and descents with a walk along a traverse with beautiful views. The part with traverse and views was correct. The other… not so much.

We fairly quickly ended up in an ascent that consisted of walking on rocks, preventing us from getting any steady rhythm going. On top of that it was at times very steep and also, as we were walking through a forest and the temperature was rising, it was very humid. After a couple of hours like this we finally made it to the top – or rather it opened up and got much less steep. We had reached the path called Bovine Way, one that went through beautiful grassy meadows and hills.

After a couple of much needed breaks (one including a delicious carrot cake!) we continued and descended down along some very steep paths.

We finally arrived at our destination in Trient. Here we were finally able to get some real resting going after the day’s walk.

Gotten a couple of blisters too, today. Crap.

Break in Champex

The lake in Champex

Lunch break before the big ascent.

A view from the Bovine Way

Pink(!) church in Trient

Accomodations. Despite being on the floor there were absolutely no problems falling asleep after today...

27th - Rifugio Bonatti – La Fouly

Despite the threatening clouds yesterday we had a clear sky when wakening up this morning and the forecast for the rest of the trek seemed promising.

After the usual morning rituals (breakfast, buying lunch packs) we were off; we descended down to the bottom of the valley (Val Ferret), and after a short break we began working us upwards to Grand Col Ferret (2537m) which also indicates the border between Italy and Switzerland. Half way we had a short stop at Refugio Elena.

After our lunch break on the Col we started a long gentle ascent down to Hamlet of Ferret (1705m). A short break later we continued down to the Swiss Val Ferret, taking us through the village of Ferret and finally to our destination, La Fouly.

A nice place (cramped sleeping quarters, though) with a great dinner. And Wi-Fi. Woo!

Tai Chi in the morning.

A break in the bottom of Val Ferret.

On the way up to Rifugio Elena

Border between Italy and Switzerland. Italy to the left, Switzerland to the right.

Swiss flowerpot.

Arriving in Switzerland, in the middle of rolling green hills and flowers.

Next vacation has been confirmed

This year will be a little different from the previous; instead of one big vacation I am planning on going on two (maybe three, depending on my financial situation during spring) smaller vacations. The first one has already been bought and confirmed and the itinerary will be the following:

21st of June

Departure from Copenhagen to Geneva, and bus (or whatever I will be able to find) to Chamonix.

21st - 30th of June

Hiking in the Alps, circling the Mont Blanc massif. The route will be Chamonix (arrival from airport) - Les Contamines - Les Chapieux - Courmayeur (Italy) - staying in Courmayeur for local activities - Val Ferret (Italy) - Champex (Switzerland) - Trient - Chamonix - Chamonix (departure).

30th of June

Back to Copenhagen, also from Geneva.

A small and manageable trip - let's see if I think the same after the first couple of days of hiking (average distance per day (excluding the rest day) is app. 18km).