26th – 27th – Returning home

The entire trip home went without a hitch and according to plan. I got picked up at the hotel at 1130, got to the airport, had to wrap my backpacks now that somebody stole my flight bag, checked in and rested while waiting to board and take off. Got to see plenty of movies which resulted in me feeling like a zombie during my 5-hour layover in Madrid. Made it on board the next flight and fell asleep even before they started the security briefing. Woke up when the album I was listening to was ending, found another and instantly fell back to sleep until we arrived in Copenhagen.

And that was it.

It’s hard to describe how amazing this trip was. I had expected it to be something like the one to Svalbard but different, and while that was correct I wasn’t prepared for how different it actually was. The size of everything, the ice, icebergs was all so overwhelming. It’s hard to put down on photos the magnificence of it all. And all the fluffy fluffballs!

To my big surprise there were quite a few young people as opposed to my trip to Svalbard. There must have been at least 30 people below 40 years on this trip which made the parties and bar visits much more interesting as there was so much more energy. This also meant that a lot more Facebook connections were established the days after returning to Ushuaia which meant after coming home I asked around and suddenly I had a copy of the wakeup call that had been auctioned off in my possession. Success!

Big thanks to Jonathan R. Green (expedition leader), Lauren Farmer (assistant expedition leader), Mark Dalpes (kayak guide), Bismarck Sommerfelt (zodiac technician), Osi Shahaf (naturalist), Blaise Guld (musician), Scott MacPhail (historian), Kevin Morgan (marine biologist), Guy Esparon (naturalist), Gerard Baker (camping guide/naturalist), Dr. Alex Cowan (geologist), Lyn Mair (ornithologist), Dr. Annette Bombosch (marine biologist), Dr. Susie Newtown (ship's doctor), Renato Granieri (photographer) and Dr. Brent S. Stewart (scientist in residence/lecturer). Big thanks to the crew members Andriy Domanin (Captain), as always stunning Josi Silva (Hotel Manager), Margaret “I’m completing my 7 month long tour on this ship the 13^th of December and when I get picked up by my husband at the airport I’m going to be so indecent” Krzyzelewski (Deck Cadet) and the remaining 48 crew members I don’t know/remember the name of (bartenders, waiters, housekeeping etc.). 

Extra big thanks should be given to the captain and the crew on the bridge for some mighty fine sailing through ice where things got a bit intense, but was handled very well and got us where we wanted to be and gave us some absolutely stunning views on the way. Big thanks to you all!

Big thanks to Chris, Rebecca, Jessica, Page, Innis, Christine, Kiki, Jane, Simon, Emily, Peter, and everyone else I haven’t mentioned but should have. You were all a terrific bunch of people and were definitely part of the reason why the trip ending up being so amazing. I hope we’ll get to meet again, and considering a Facebook group for a possible reunion tour in 2018 has been created, maybe… 

This trip's guides. I unfortunately didn't get to take a group photo but luckily we were given an official one with the trip logs.

Back: Mark Dalpes (kayak guide), Bismarck Sommerfelt (zodiac technician), Osi Shahaf (naturalist), Blaise Guld (musician), Scott MacPhail (historian)

Middle: Kevin Morgan (marine biologist), Guy Esparon (naturalist), Lauren Farmer (assistant expedition leader), Jonathan R. Green (expedition leader), Gerard Baker (camping guide/naturalist), Dr. Alex Cowan (geologist)

Front: Lyn Mair (ornithologist), Dr. Annette Bombosch (marine biologist), Dr. Susie Newtown (ship's doctor), Renato Granieri (photographer), Dr. Brent S. Stewart (scientist in residence/lecturer)

Full album can be found here.

24th – 25th – Buenos Aires

The party on the ship last night was great. Because the average age of passengers on this trip was so much lower than the trip to Svalbard there was much more going on all the time and much more energy. Great fun was had. A guide who had been on the ship on Svalbard but not this showed up during the evening as he would be joining the ship the rest of the season until March. That was a fun surprise.

In the morning we got up at 0630 and bags we didn’t want to carry ourselves were handed over before 0700. Breakfast was had and depending on when you were flying out during the day (if at all) busses were ready to bring you to the airport in a timely fashion. I had, together with a few others, a couple of hours in Ushuaia. Ushuaia is not a town interesting enough to hang out in – especially not in the early morning.

I flew to Buenos Aires (together with maybe 30 others from the ship), transferred to the hotel, checked in and completely crashed the moment I entered the room. Complete fatigue. I had planned on spending the second day in BA to take the ferry on a day trip to Uruguay and felt every single grain of energy seep out. I still took a walk to the ferry terminal to see if I could find some information but at that point all info was closed and I was none the wiser. Returning trying to find a place to eat I completely randomly bumped into the guy that had been my roommate in Ushuaia and tent buddy when camping. He had been on an earlier flight but had a night in BA before returning home. He had already had dinner but he still joined me to a restaurant where I had a bite to eat while he had another beer. We agreed to meet for breakfast at his hotel the following day at 0900, making it easier for him as he would be leaving at 1030.

We met, had breakfast and (once again) said our goodbyes.

I then had a walk around seeing the city until I in the afternoon arrived back at the hotel, rested and realized that two others from the ship were in the vicinity. This resulted in us going out for dinner together, letting me enjoy another slab of meat before returning home.

Walking around BA was weird; I had gotten used to the fresh, clean, cold air, the weather and the light in Antarctica and am now in big-city dirt and pollution, noise, crowds and heat. I miss the cold – the Antarctic cold, not the cold that is waiting for me at home.

Obelisco de Buenos Aires.

I am guessing as a tourist taking this photo is just as cheesy as taking a photo of the Little Mermaid.

23rd – The expedition ends

We were woken up at around 0645 as planned with the notification that we would be passing by the Horn around 0720. Every single story there is about people going around the cape involves storms, high waves and generally bad conditions. Calm sea, barely any wind. It was nice.

Coming up to the Horn in fantastic conditions.

The small island to the far right is furthest south point.

Two human made structures can just be seen on the two small hills in the center; to the left is a statue of an albatros 

(with the albatros being in negative space) and to the right a light house.

From then on we sailed through the Beagle Channel, continuing the nice condition we were not getting used to and steadily getting rid of layers. In the mean time we watched a movie about a vessel The Peking in 1929 rounding the Horn in some absolutely terrifying weather, disembarkation instructions, lunch and generally spending time outside to get the last sights before arriving in Ushuaia. Magellanic penguins and dolphins were high points. Unfortunately the dolphins followed in the wake of the bow which was very unsuitable for the long lens I had with me at the time and when returning with a shorter lens they had naturally disappeared. We passed by Puerto Williams, the most southerly town in the world and even got to see some fur seals resting on the base of a buoy.

Unfortunately the best photo I have of the dolphins.

Magellanic penguins.

Resting fur seals.

At 1800 we had goodbye drinks with the captain and we got to say thanks to the crew (or rather those we have been in closest contact with and representatives for the rest). Then the traditional auction was held and like last year I was very interested in the flag which I didn’t win when on Svalbard. What I hadn’t prepared myself for was to see the winning bid reach 620USD. What is wrong with people? At least it all goes to charity. They also auctioned a recording of our expedition leader doing a custom wakeup call. That went for 250USD, bid by a group of girls. I had hoped that the recording had been made public for all but I understand why they chose to do it like this instead.

Dinner was had successfully (as usual) and after that people either went into Ushuaia (we had docked during dinner) or went out back to the bar on the ship.

Me with Jonathan Green, the expedition leader.

During the last night's party several guides joined Blaise Guld on the stage for a song or two. Here Gerard Baker.

22nd – Crossing the Drake – again

Last night was spent in the bar and with the increased rolling of the ship it gave view to some quite interesting and impressive dance moves. One of our guides is very energetic and kept running/dancing/jumping around – so much that it was more fun looking at the expedition leader who was standing at the bar and his reactions; changing between looking absolutely baffled and facepalming hard trying to hold back laughter. Another guide gave a near perfect lip sync with precise dance moves to Michael Jackson’s Thriller. Nothing I had expected to see from a large German with the same name as one of the biggest warships from WW2. It was amazing.

Breakfast was had as planned at 0800 and afterwards there were two presentations; geology of the Scotia Sea and the Amundson/Scott race to the South Pole. We are going back to Ushuaia crossing the Drake and nothing really to do (unless whales – or orcas! – appear near the ship) so it’s all about just killing time from now on until arrival.

The conditions got gradually worse during last night but according to the crew it reached its highest at around 0300 and from then on slowly getting better. And it does feel better than last night and getting close to how it was going when we were going south. Very manageable still, but there are a few people not showing up for the meals.

After lunch we watched the movie Happy Feet which according to the guides the main reason we are on this trip. We were also presented with a small concert by the ship’s musician in the lounge. Things could be a lot worse than this.

During the afternoon visibility dropped to 50m or less. It didn’t get much better during or after dinner where we watched The Big Year – a movie where birding is the main plot point.

Sea conditions have gotten even better and is expected to stay like this until we reach Ushuaia. As we are doing very well on time (speed is app. 14 knots) the captain offered to take us by Cape Horn on the way. There were no complaints, on the contrary. Expected arrival around 0700 tomorrow and discrete wakeup call maybe 15 minutes before.

21st – Last day before returning

The last day before going back across the Drake returning to Ushuaia started as usual with a wakeup at 0700 and breakfast half an hour later. An hour later people started getting ready for zodiac cruises or landings on Livingstone Island at Elephant Point where the main attraction is elephant seals. This is also one of the few places in Antarctica where you can actually find green. There were some larger males around, the alpha was estimated to app. 2 tons the others a bit smaller. A few females too, but most of all there were pups either just lying around to being very curious as to what kind of strange red creatures had arrived to the island.

Male and female elephant seals.

Female elephant seal.

Elephant seal pups.

It can even be green in Antarctica.

Nature being beautiful doesn't necessarily have to be beautiful to look at. 

Snow petrel munching on the leftovers of a female elephant seal.

Back at the ship we had lunch and relocated one last time and arrived after 4 hours at 1600 at Robert Point on Robert Island.

The conditions in the afternoon had gotten a bit livelier than previous on the trip which meant that when going from the gangway to the zodiac you had to be careful, but as soon you were in the boat and on your way to the beach it was relative smooth sailing. Being the last landing on the trip the atmosphere felt a bit more mellow – people using the last chance they have to soak in the impressions of the Antarctic environment. And it was a nice place; nice views and plenty of gentoos, chinstraps, elephant seals and a couple of fur seals.

Fur seal.

Returning from our last landing on the trip the ship's musician Blaise Guld was waiting in the mudroom and welcoming us back.

Going back to the ship the conditions hadn’t changed much but around 1815 we lifted anchor and started making our way north to Ushuaia. The day’s briefing was held at 1845 but only a couple of minutes later we were informed of breaches and flukes in the water in front of us. We must have broken some kind of record in how short time we managed to empty the lounge. We were presented with two beautiful flukes multiple times right in front of the ship by two humpback whales. A great sendoff, I don’t believe I have seen such a show before and can almost forgive nature for not giving us more emperors on the trip.

Almost.

After dinner we had a costume party and it was clear that the guides running the show are enjoying it just as much as the ones dressed up enjoy dressing up and having fun.

The sea has gotten a bit rougher and it will likely get worse during the night. I still feel fine, but once again I don’t know if it’s the sea sick patch, that I still can see the horizon without problems or if I just don’t really struggle with rough seas. Either way I’m glad it’s like that and not pure panic as soon as a wave appears. It also helps I’m in a cabin which is pretty much located in the middle of the ship.

There will be no wakeup call tomorrow but breakfast is at 0800-0900 and presentations will be held during the day. It will be some interesting days we are looking forward to.

20th – Ave, Imperator!

As planned the alarm went off at 0330 and there was quite a few of us out and about to see the sunrise and tabular icebergs now slowly appearing when entering the Antarctic Sound. After an hour or so my interest in sleep overruled my fear of missing out of something interesting and I returned to my cabin.

At 0700 we had our usual wakeup call; time, date, weather and forecast, location and destination. And as a minor afterthought it was mentioned that an emperor penguin had been spotted. They usually only appear much further south and are a rarity this far north. Our expedition leader has been here 15-ish times and with this he had seen a total of 2. I was out of bed, dressed and with camera in hand faster than I ever thought possible but when coming up on deck it seemed to have dived and disappeared. It annoys me more than it should that it got away before I got a shot of it – or even just saw it! – but to be honest hearing a rumor that somebody had managed to get a shot of it before it disappeared bugged me even more. Jealousy is not a nice thing.

After standing around for a bit I went back down to have a shower and breakfast. Due to the amounts of ice present we were not able to get further south so instead we grabbed the zodiacs and started cruising around among the ice. We got to see some adélie penguins for the first time and in groups of 2-3 zodiacs we anchored on a large piece of sea ice where we got the opportunity have a walk around. To be honest during the entire time I was sneaking an ear to the radios hoping the word “emperor” would come over it, but that unfortunately never happened. We had a bit more cruising done before the ship asked us to return. When getting into the zodiacs the conditions weren’t quite as calm as what we were used to and the swell had now increased quite a bit and the wind had picked up, too. It was announced that the winds had gone up to 35-40 knots with gusts above 50 knots and we were asked not to go out on the top deck because of this.

Antarctic tern.

Adélie penguin.

After everyone had returned to the ship we continued towards Gourdin Island. The views of icebergs on the way were amazing, some of the 1-2 km long, dwarfing the ship even at a distance. It was quite humbling to experience. We arrived at mid-afternoon and anchored as usual. The weather had calmed a bit but the zodiacs we still bobbing a meter up and down at the gangway and there was quite a bit of spray going on when getting us to land. The island had a lot of adélie colonies which we now got the chance to see up close. They don’t seem to not be quite as shy or territorial as the gentoos and chinstraps but they were obviously still wild animals you should keep your distance to. From a view point you could see out over the surrounding sea and several tabular icebergs.

It can be hard to see the size without any references but this photo was taken from the ship, not a zodiac.

Only photo I have with 3 different kinds of penguins; gentoos in the front, adélies to the right and chinstraps in the back.

Back at the ship dinner was had and afterwards we were shown the documentary “Chasing Ice” about the receding glaciers around the world. Very shocking, highly recommended.

19th – Just keep swimming…

The morning started with us entering Deception Island in good weather. Apparently the volcano is highly overdue for another eruption – but the eruption is via points along the wall not one large in the center. When it’s low tide (we arrived at high tide) you can see fumes/evaporating water due to the heat under the ocean floor. The spot where we landed is called Port Foster with a long history of whaling. We had a look around in glorious conditions after which it was time for the traditional polar plunge. 

Port Foster.

There were still whale bones lying around. 

Walking on the beach, with Neptune's Window seen in the distance.

A view from Neptune's Window of the caldera.

The ship to the left was a science vessel.

A colorful... blob.

Sensible as I am I chose to stay dry and photograph the insanity instead. There was a lonely penguin standing on the shore when the bathers came running into the water which nearly resulted in it getting run over. Our expedition leader mentioned later that there was no need to worry as he had seen it pop out of the water further down the beach looking unhurt albeit a bit rustled (though he did politely but sternly remind us during the briefing that we are the invaders here and we should be respecting the local wildlife, not the other way around).

Some people prepare by taking selfies.

Notice the penguin in the background.

And they're off!

The penguin can now be seen two people from the left in the back, having a really bad day.

All the way in.

And then quickly back out again.

During lunch we relocated once more, this time to Half Moon island where we arrived at 1500. There were – obviously – more penguins and otherwise some beautiful views of surrounding ice and snow and glaciers. We were told when reaching the beach that a rock less than 50m away often couldn’t be seen due to fog, and it would be considered clear weather if you could see 300m. We had, as usual, perfectly clear weather to the horizon.

Look at that mustache!

Dinner was outdoor barbecue; a bit chilly but great food with an equally great view. Afterwards a documentary about the post office and penguins was shown after which most of us went to bed as we had been recommended to get up tomorrow at 0330 at sunrise to see the tabular icebergs when entering the Weddell Sea.

Barbecuing on the ship.