16th – Camping

An early wakeup call at 0630 and breakfast at 0700 started the day. We were heading towards the point where we were supposed to spend the morning but on arrival it turned out that it had become unsafe due to ice conditions.

We left and instead went to Cuverville Island with a lot of gentoo penguins. They were returning in large numbers to their nesting areas trying to find last year’s mate to start the mating all over again. There were a constant stream of penguins coming up from the water and waddling up to find a spot and we were told that we were quite lucky seeing it as the mass return only lasts a couple of days a year. We ended up spending a couple of hours on the island before returning to the ship and having lunch.

"Who are you and how did you get in to my back yard?"

A constant stream of penguins arriving at Cuverville.

No penguins without penguin porn.

With the nests being close conflicts are unavoidable.

Crabeater seal. 

The passengers who have purchased the kayaking add-on seem to be going out whenever we go out on the zodiacs. I’m glad that I didn’t chose that even if I did consider it (ignoring that I have barely any experience with them at all) as it doesn’t let you sit down somewhere and just look at the penguins while being surprised how close they actually get. I fully understand why somebody would want to go kayaking – the nature is beautiful after all – but I can see myself being frustrated if I was stuck in one of those instead of being close on land.

After lunch there was a 1½ hour rest before we went out again, this time on George’s Point on Ronge Island where we once again were facing multiple penguins. Primarily gentoos but also a few chinstraps could be seen. I can’t get over how funny-looking they are when the wobble/waddle their way around.

I love the colors.

To infinity and.... Well, at least to that iceberg over there!

We were all back on the ship around 1715 where 60 of us started mentally preparing ourselves for the night out in tents. The camping group were served before the other half of the passengers and at 2000 we were on our way to Orne Island where we were to spend the night. The tents were quickly set up – they were only just wide and long enough for two sleeping matts. Toilets were two chemical toilets mounted in holes in the snow so that you could use them while staying more or less hidden from view.

The tents were set up close to the penguins.

The chemical toilet is being installed in a hole 

and the guide Gerard Baker is telling us how to utilize it.

We had a small walk around to get a feeling of the island and see the penguins and enjoying the view. A few stars could be spotted but it was quite bright still, but Venus was very clear on the sky. At around midnight people had returned into their tents.

Big thanks to Emily Bullington for letting me borrow her poster.