Wednesday 15 January 2020

15th – 16th – Camping in Paradise

Waking up we found ourselves anchored in Paradise Bay where the Argentinian base Base Brown is located. The weather was overcast and with low visibility but the air was still, so the conditions were good to go exploring in the zodiacs, enabling us getting close to both gentoo penguins and crabeater seals. The pale light really made the blue come out in the ice bergs surrounding us in the water, before we went to land and had a walk around the base. Here there was a large number of gentoos having nests around in the area and at this time of year it was also possible to get to see some small chicks mostly hiding under the adults. 


Base Brown seen from above.

Gentoo with chick.

And people say penguins don't fly.

Sheathbill.

During lunch back on the ship we relocated a bit north to Danco Island where we managed to do a bit of exploring in the zodiacs before going on land and having the opportunity to go for a short walk up onto a small hill on the island. The view was stunning and it helped that the air had cleared since the morning. We got to see quite the selection of seals, penguins and other birds, so for a first land day on the tour we were setting the bar high.

Yawning leopard seal.

During dinner we were informed that due to good conditions the people that had signed up for camping would be camping tonight in Paradise Bay. So the ship returned to our previous location and after dinner we gathered our things, sleeping bags and tents and zodiac’ed back on land. Here we were shown where to put up camp and with varying success everybody got their tents set up before wandering around enjoying the view of the landscape and the few penguins and seals sharing the area with us.

Waking up in the early morning all campers got out and packed all our stuff before getting the zodiacs back to the ship. When we were all back the ship pulled the anchor and headed towards the Lemaire Channel. The weather was beautiful and coming down through the narrow channel with tall rocks towering on both sides and the water littered with small bergs was an amazing experience. Reaching the southern point of the channel we turned around and returned, heading this time towards Port Charcot. From the top of the hill we had a stunning view in almost all directions. Clear weather and a blue sea littered with ice bergs. What an afternoon!

The Lemaire channel can be seen to the right.


The view from Port Charcot.

Returning to the ship we were informed that it was time for the polar plunge for those who were dumb enough to want to. Having done it in the Arctic I felt I had to do it in the Antarctic – especially when doing it from the ship it’s much easier. Quickly down and up again and it’s all over. And having the experience from before I knew what I was up against – and this time I held my nose to great success. 

Experience told me it would be a very good idea to hold my nose. No cold water rushing in is a good thing.
Photo taken by Paul Glendell.

Proof that I don't always make good life choices.

The day ended with a beautiful orange sunset.

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