30th of October – 2nd of November – Pench

Shortly after arriving, at around 1630, we went out on a short walk where we were mostly introduced to the local flora, but we also managed to see a few birds and in particular quite a few fairly large and beautifully yellow spiders sitting and waiting in the nets often spanning a meter (or more), often crossing the path above us. A couple of owls flew past us and returning to camp we saw fruit bats flying above. Huge mammals that first looked like birds until you got a second look and recognized the profile of Batman.

The following three days were scheduled with three morning drives and one afternoon drive. The second afternoon was originally free but 12 of us opted for an optional drive giving us 5 drives in total here. The afternoon drive that day wasn’t included as “our” part of the national park was closed that afternoon, so we went to a different part of the park which was still open. This part was mainly bamboo forest and the road was mostly narrow two wheel tracks, sharp turns and steep ups and downs. The morning drives started at sunrise around 0600 and we returned to the camp just before noon, and included in that drive was a break where we got to have a breakfast that had been brought with us from camp. For the afternoon drives we left around 1430 and returned after dark at around 1800.

 

Leopard.

 

The group was separated in 4 different vehicles and with no phone reception in the park and no radios the guides and drivers relied on word of mouth when we passed another vehicle on the roads. This meant that unless you were present where the action happened to be you would very likely not get to experience an encounter. It was therefore all about timing and luck. And due to the forest you couldn’t see far so it was impossible to see a gathering a vehicles (implying an encounter) as a pointer to where to go unless they were further down the road in front or behind you.

 

Asian green bee-eater.

 

Groups were set for the stay but driver and guide was randomized every drive so we never got the same driver and/or guide twice. Not knowing exactly why I’m assuming it was to avoid favoritism among the staff and not getting aggressively competitive at a wildlife encounter as you could risk getting in front of/pushing someone away that you’d be driving/guiding with the following day. The interactions between the cars seemed very cordial and helpful with regards to where the last sighting had been. And if you felt you got a bad driver or guide you would be left assured it was a one-off. Also the cars were given a random road to start off on so the driver wouldn’t know where he would be going until start. I’m assuming it’s in part to force to spread the load of the traffic to all the roads instead everybody taking the same path because the drivers have found out that’s the best odds to see wildlife. 

 

White-throated kingfisher.

 

The wildlife was quite diverse and tons of different birds, some of them being very colorful. Everything from small bee-eaters to large eagles and carrion birds. We saw a few turtles in the distance, insects and spiders. And the most interesting part: mammals. Mongoose, jackals, wild boar, deer of various kinds and guar (basically a very muscular-looking buffalo), and the most interesting in my eyes: leopards and tigers.

 

Mongoose.

 

We were lucky; on the first drive we saw a leopard frolicking in the bush in the distance for a while. It turned out it apparently was two not quite adults playing. After that, though, our luck plummeted off a cliff. 

 

Painted spurfowl.

 

I know safari drives. I have experienced done them numerous times. Hope for everything, expect nothing. So not finding tigers wasn’t too bad – after staying here we would still have 11 drives at the two next places we were visiting. What DID frustrate me immensely was that by the end of the second day the group’s 3 other vehicles had had amazing encounters with tigers. When leaving the park on the first afternoon drive our driver/guide were in a hurry (our worst paring during this stay by far) and we left the park a few minutes earlier than the rest. Had they taken it easy like the others we would have seen the two cubs at the side of the road we had been on only minutes earlier.

 

Plumheaded parakeets.

 

On the third day’s afternoon drive in the bamboo forest our chances would be high to see tigers as they love navigating in bamboo. We were the only ones in this part of the park and the guides we able to communicate by phone. There were birds but due to the higher denseness of trees here they were almost impossible to see. We saw nothing but a few deer and guar. We did have an encounter with a large mail guar; we were driving behind it as it was lumbering along the road at a comfortable distance. Apparently not comfortable enough – at one point it looked over its shoulder and gained eye contact with us for only a split second, and it was the briefest and most intense “I will fuck you up” I have ever felt. Apparently the driver agreed because he instantly decided it would be a good idea to turn around and find somewhere else to drive.

 

 

 Eurasian hoopoe.

 

 At this point our tour guide was getting frustrated on our behalf for not seeing a single tiger yet.

On our last morning drive we told our guide and driver (who turned out to be an absolute excellent pairing) that our focus was tigers. An hour later at around 7 we bumped into 3-4 cars that had stopped due to… tigers. Two 9-12 months old cubs sitting on the road ahead, and soon after the mother showed up from the bushes. As more cars showed up as they incidentally came this way there was at times frantic but surprisingly polite navigating back and forth to either follow them, getting better angles for the passengers (but without being too much of a bother to the others) or giving them room when they came closer. 10-15 cars on a barely 2 car wide gravel road trying to give each other space was quite the puzzle.

 

Tiger!

 

  

 

When the tigers starting disappearing into the forest one of the group’s other cars arrived to spend a few minutes with the last tiger before that also went away. Even their comment about spending time with a leopard and its three cubs couldn’t wipe the smile off our faces. Our tour guide was with them in the car and he was obviously very relived and happy, too. When leaving the area I thought we had maybe spent 20 minutes with the tigers but it turned out we had been there for a full hour.

 

 

 

 

We went hunting for the leopard with no luck, and hearing a rumor about another tiger also didn’t pan out, but at this point it didn’t really feel like it mattered.

We returned early to the camp around 1030-ish where we had breakfast instead of in the park before we packed, checked out at noon and left for our second stay, at Kanha National Park.

28th – 30th of October – Getting to nature

Flying to Delhi I had a layover in Zurich of a bit more than an hour. Everywhere I read said that would be enough time to change flights and not knowing the airport I decided to trust that. I did get a bit less not worried when my first flight ended up being 20 minutes late.

Reaching Zurich I was obviously not the only one with a tight connection, but I got to my connecting flight without issue and in good time – despite having to get a connecting train between terminals. The 7-ish hour flight went without a hitch and we arrived in Delhi on time at 2330. The length of the flight was perfect to get to watch Antman: Quantumania, 65, Knock at the Cabin and Renfield.

Getting through the airport was surprisingly smooth – after locating the immigration booths for the e-visa arrivals – and my pickup was waiting for me outside. While waiting for a second passenger I got some money from the ATM; success in the 3rd attempt.

We arrived at the hotel around 0200 where I got some much needed sleep and after a slow morning I had a few hours’ walk in the neighborhood. Those who did not go for a walk did not miss much other than it was very dusty. It seems pretty clear that they have chosen this hotel as it is relatively close to the airport while not at the airport and not in the industrial space between the airport and the city.

The group met with out guide in the afternoon – it feels like I am in a group with mostly English retirees. We went out for dinner at a nearby restaurant which was a great start to eating Indian food for two weeks. Returning to the hotels we went our separate ways getting ready for the early departure to catch our early flight out to Nagpur.

The plan was to drive to the airport in 30-40 minutes which would give us close to 2 hours at the airport, as in plenty of time to check in and reach our gate. Half way to the airport, at a fork in the road, for some reason the police diverted us off the main road and straight route to the airport so it ended up taking us almost an hour getting there. There was a bit of confusion with where we were supposed to check in so that took longer than expected, and security was slow and chaotic. We were at one moment together and in the next 5 of us were through while the rest were stuck behind a large group having problems getting their boarding passes approved by the scanner. For someone who appreciates orderly queueing, this was a stressful event. Those of us who had gotten through were told by our guide to get to the gate and he would have the rest catch up with us as they got through. When we got there boarding had just commenced.

Getting seated and comfortable we saw passengers pouring on but it wasn’t until towards the end we saw the rest of the group boarding. It seemed like it was just in a nick of time that everybody made it. Arriving after an uneventful flight everybody actually got to reunite with their luggage.

Leaving Nagpur we drove for 2-3 hours before reaching Pench Jungle Camp, our home the next three nights, at around mid-afternoon.

1st – 2nd – Post race and return home

I had eyed a steak restaurant close to the hotel for dinner, and it was only possible to get a table for 1730 unless I wanted to wait until 2100 so obviously I went for an early dinner. It has positive reviews so I had high hopes, though I ended up disappointed. Bland risotto, tasty but not particularly tender steak, a pepper sauce that barely tasted of anything, so-so fries but a delicious dessert. The bread & butter and wine was good, though. So that was a great finish to an otherwise excellent day.

Relaxing the rest of the night followed by a good night’s sleep I grabbed myself a full breakfast before checking out and spent some time walking around before heading towards the airport. On the way to the train station I managed to grab some fish & chips before getting on the train and getting to the airport where checking in went smooth. I sat down in probably the smallest lounge ever at tarmac level (though I ended up seeing more rainbows than planes) before boarding on my flight to Amsterdam. Getting through the large airport in an hour was a bit stressful, having to go through security didn’t make it faster, but I finally made it to my next gate – and in time. And then it turned out my connecting flight was almost half an hour delayed. Oh, well.

How I feel about marathons.

Last leg went without a hitch and I was soon back in Denmark. Unfortunately due to the delay I missed my train connection so instead of getting home around midnight I was home around 0115. Bummer.

The view from the lounge at Inverness airport.

Saw more rainbows than planes.

Despite Inverness not being that interesting and getting home later than expected, I really enjoyed this trip. Might have something to do with me having a very good marathon. But that’s just guesswork.

Full album can be seen here.

1st of October – Loch Ness Marathon

The marathon set off at 1000, but as the start is outside Inverness busses had been acquired to get us all out there. And at around 0750 a long convoy of busses were on their way all the way down the western side of Loch Ness, turned along the south point and ended up in nowhere on some very small roads where we all disembarked an hour after departure. It was quite impressive looking around and seeing the long line of busses all around on some otherwise very small roads, most of them not paved. Reaching the main road – and main is meant as the largest there, maybe 4-5 meters wide at best – you started towards the starting area further down the road. Along the way the road was lined with portapotties, equipment/crew vehicles, more portapotties and baggage trucks. After this just a long empty space on the road until you reached the starting line. And all around us was beautiful views of Scottish highland. And here all the runners huddled together in a chilly – but not uncomfortably so – morning with fair weather waiting for the start.

A view of the landscape from the starting area.

And at 1000 we were off.

Until Dores the run was mostly following a road cutting through forest lining Loch Ness limiting our views. We had the entire road for ourselves – 1-1½ lanes paved road winding through the landscape while descending down towards the water level. Around Dores, at around 25-ish km, the landscape opened up all around us giving us views out over the loch, and the road widened to a more commonly used 2-lane road where we were limited to the left side while cars could drive on the other side. All this meant that all traffic was blocked for the first part and after Dores only southbound driving was possible, thus the houses we passed in the beginning were effectively prevented from going anywhere until the afternoon when they’d open up the road again.

Photo taken by Marathon Photo.

The weather was nice  running weather. The sun was mostly covered behind clouds in the beginning, and not until we had gotten warmed up we got a bit of a drizzle before staying dry for the rest of the run. When the sun came out it could have gotten quite warm but running among trees we were in the shade preventing heating up too much. Coming out in the open at that point the sun was out but mostly in our backs.

Photo taken by Marathon Photo.

The course wasn’t the easiest. The first 16-ish km it was mostly downhill from 310m to 20m, with a short steep uphill section midway. From 16 to 28km it was mostly flat – relative to the beginning. It was constantly gradually undulating but it wasn’t too bad in spite of it. The following 4km we had a gentle 100m ascent. It wasn’t particularly steep, especially compared to the start, but it just kept going. That section sucked a lot of energy and the following descent wasn’t steep enough to actually being felt like a descent equivalent of the ascent. 

The face of someone seeing the finish line just across the river but realizing there is still app. 2km left.

Photo taken by Marathon Photo.

Reaching Inverness quite a few people had come out to support us along the way – a big difference compared to the course until then. While there were a few out around Dores before then it was mainly only runners out due to the conditions. Reaching River Ness with less than 2km to go you could hear and see the finishing area on the other side of the river which was enormously frustrating knowing you still had a bit to go despite the finish was just over there.

A few 100 meters to the finish line, seeing a new PR on the horizon and still feeling fine (relatively).

Photo taken by Marathon Photo.

Crossing the finishing line and picking up my goodie pack and bag I waited for a bit to meet with a friend who was also running, this being her first marathon. Crossing the finishing line she was tired but obviously very happy doing it and completing. It was a quick hello/congratulations/ goodbye as she was meeting with family who was waiting for her – and that meant I could get back to my hotel to get a what felt like a well-deserved shower and rest. Feeling quite uncomfortable walking around in the sun, tired, worn out and severely dehydrated, a hotel room seemed very attractive at that point. 

Photo taken by Marathon Photo.

The probably funniest part was actually on the way back to the hotel. At the intersection where we were running along the river and had to make a turn to cross the bridge to the final stretch towards the finish there was a restaurant/bar. Outside this was a line of already finished runners, each with a beer in hand and very vigorously cheering runners along. The runners passing by were ones who would complete in 5:15 and later and many of them really needed that final cheering on. And when a runner came walking the onlookers would loudly chant “Run! Run! Run!” which energized them and had them back running, resulting in (even louder) cheers from them. It was a fantastic scene.

The best cheering to be found on the course.

My goal for the run – like with any other marathon I run – was to finish in less than 4 hours. With the course profile being what it is I considered it being a real possibility of not reaching my goal, but as usual I approached the run completely ignoring that fact. My PR is 3:55:34 from my virtual Boston marathon back in September 2020. Or – to be more correct: My PR was 3:55:34 from my virtual Boston marathon back in September 2020. Because in spite of the plenty of uphill I managed to complete this marathon in the official time 3:52:53, an improvement of 2:41. I honestly didn’t expect such a result, but apparently the downhill for the first 16km were nice to me. 

According to results, 3555 people were signed up and 3504 finished. I finished 749 overall (top 21,38%), 638 out of 2172 men (top 29,37%) and 184 out of 554 men 40-49 (33,21%). I crossed the halfway point at 1:49:52, probably the best time I have had for the first half of a marathon (not to be confused by my best half marathon time). In the second half I dropped 58 places – no surprise there due to the lack of lots of downhill and the long uphill stretch. Compared to the rest on the result page (50 results per page, i.e. 701-750) more than half jumped or dropped a 3-digit amount of places on the second half. 

The average time for the first and second half of the run for M40 and men was 1:58:46 and 2:27:04, and 2:00:43 and 2:29:21, respectively. The last person crossing the finish line did it in 8:50:25 but that was both gun and chip time, so I assume something went wrong there. The second to last ran the distance in 8:40:08. The fastest did it in 2:22:04 and fastest woman did it in 2:43:45.

All that taken into consideration I am very happy with the result. Of course, nobody wants to drop positions and I clearly did that on the second half, but considering the race conditions and the fact that I got a new PR I can’t really find anything to complain about. It was, overall, a very nice run.