16th – 20th – The Iberian Lynxn’t

The following morning at 0915 I was picked up by a guide, and after picking up a Norwegian pair elsewhere in Malaga we were off on a 3-hour drive north past Cordoba and east to Andújar. Arriving at around mid-day we grabbed lunch packs and went on. 

 Fox.

The goal for the next four days was to find the Iberian lynx which roams the area. There isn’t a national park where you have to register somewhere and enter the area; instead the natural park Sierra de Andújar north of Andújar is protected and otherwise freely accessible by public roads. It is worth noting that the roads around here are mostly gravel and very windy so unless you are coming here to look for lynx (or any other wildlife) you wouldn’t venture into these parts. There are places where chances to see them are higher than others, so there are parts of the roads where you see cars parked with people carrying cameras around looking out into the landscape. These places were mostly places you have a good view of rock formations where the lynx comes by to rest on, or view points covering a large open area where you’ll be able to spot the lynx even from a long distance. It is worth noting that the large open area is still hilly and full of shrubs, bushes and trees so seeing a lynx is still very much depending on luck and timing. Especially also because their territories are fairly large and there will only be one mail and (maybe) one female in each. So the density is very low in a hard-to-see environment. Good luck!

Having picked up lunch we drove for another hour or so along windy roads before reaching the area to spot the lynx. The procedure was such that we found a place, left the vehicle and walked along the road for a bit seeing if anything interesting would appear. An hour or two later we would return to the car, drive somewhere else and repeat. Maybe confer with other camera-carrying people to hear if they had spotted anything (they hadn’t) before continuing the slow wander or silent watching of the landscape.

Red robin.

When it started getting dark we returned to Andújar and checked in at our hotel. The hotel was owned and run by a couple and we received a very warm welcome on arrival and we were soon seated in their basement previously used to storing wine and olive oil where we every evening were served a 3-course dinner. It was delicious including the wine and local olive oil and the atmosphere was warm and cozy. Breakfasts were also served here, being more of a buffet with the usual cereals, yoghurts, breads, danishes and cakes and eggs. Being very early in the lynx season and not summer (lynx season is mainly January) there were only a few other people staying at the hotel so it never felt crowded having our meals in an otherwise slightly limited space.

Common redstart.

Armed with our lunch packs we left in the early morning while it was still cold and dark, so when we arrived at the lookout points the sun had come out and we could get the most use of the light. So today – Tuesday – we stayed around the rocks and lookout points; spending the early morning at the rocks and later we moved on to get a wider view where also quite a few others had positioned themselves. And suddenly there was a yelp from one of the others, and far out in the distance, walking up a hill away from us a lonely lynx was moving. And a few seconds later it was gone. That was it. We were looking eagerly into the distance where it had disappeared, but it was completely out of sight again. And the rest of the day was spent looking without finding anything.

One far-away lynx-butt being presented to the photographers. 

Iberian ibex.

The following day we went to the Encinarejo reservoir as lynx sometimes is spotted there and the chance of seeing otters. There were no lynxes (surprise) but a few otters swimming around in the lake and plenty of birds. We also visited La Lancha, the town where people lived when the damn was built at the reservoir, now a ghost town. Walking around and sitting having lunch we were met by a small group of Iberian ibex, something that isn’t guaranteed at all so we had that going for us. In the afternoon we returned to the usual overlooked area, and meeting some of the other people there we were informed that they saw two lynx in the morning and could follow them for almost 45 minutes crossing the road and wandering around in the open. I was genuinely happy for them but... damn.

Kingfisher.

 

Otter.

The last day we spent the morning back at the usual lookout points with out seeing much. While the mornings and evenings had been chilly the middays and afternoons reached above 20 degrees with very little clouds so it got very warm. Around 11 this morning it started raining and we decided that it was the signal for us to pack up and return to Malaga. With lunch along the way we retuned in the afternoon, dropping off the Norwegians and then me, saying goodbye to our excellent guide promising him that I’ll be back some day to have another go at seeing the lynx.

On the lookout.

Dinner was had near the hotel, checked out the following morning, took the train from the nearby station to the airport, checked in and flew home without a single issue.

 

 Out there, somewhere, there's a lynx.

I enjoyed the trip, despite not seeing much of the lynx. Not having visited Malaga before this trip was new to me, and despite the downpour on the first day the weather was excellent to walk around the city. A couple of colleagues also did the run so meeting up with them on the Sunday evening was nice – especially because I take joy in the fact that I was far from the sorest from the run. And funny enough I don’t feel too bummed about not really seeing much of the lynx; I assume it was/is a combination of the ease of returning (don’t have to go far like to India or similar), the tour was cheap and probably also because I just needed some time off and away from work, so even staring idly at some rocks for the 4 days out of the city would have felt rewarding. In any case, I feel that I may be back at some point for another attempt.

Full album can be seen here.

15th – Malaga marathon

The marathon was to start at 0830 and the starting corrals would be opened 0745-0815. Staying at a hotel overlooking the starting area leaving at 0730 I was in very good time. On time we started flowing into our designated corrals, and at around 0800 the pacers starting entering, and “my” pacers (4:00) took up position in the back of the starting group. Perfect – as long as I keep them behind me I’ll be fine. 20 minutes later all pacers moved ahead and positioned themselves from the rear to the front of their starting groups. WTF? As a registered 3:55 finisher this was very confusing and I was far from the only runner being confused by this.

The front group (elites etc.) were sent off on time and a few moments later the rest were sent off in a steady flow and 6 minutes after the start I crossed the starting line. There was a fair amount of variation in the width of the streets during the run, even in the beginning which is arguable the most critical part due to the congestion of the runners. With great difficulty it took maybe 5km before I managed to pass the 4:00 pacers and put a bit of distance to them – together with several other runners.

The start was at a comfy 8-ish degrees with only a few clouds and a breeze so very comfortable running conditions. We started off westward where we circled through a bit of the central part of the city (though not the old part) before coming out to the waterfront in the opposite direction of the start, where we after a few kilometers reached the waterfront area near my hotel and turned out towards the cruise terminal. Here we circled back (not really any other option out there unless you want to go swimming), returned the same way back and continued eastward before we once again circled around and ended up near the starting area hitting the halfway point of the run.

At this point we were split in two; half marathoners were led into their finishing area while the rest of us were led out westward, along the same street we were on before turning out towards the cruise terminal. At around 28km we turned away from the water and ran around in what mostly looked like an industrial area until at 30km exactly we entered Malaga Athletic Stadium where we did a round before leaving again and continuing through the industrial area and towards the city center.

With maybe 4-5km left we reached the east side of Rio Guadalmedina north of the center, and from there we entered the old city, in the end getting back out on the main street and after 800 m crossing the finish line.

Along the way the weather did get a bit warmer reaching around 13-15 degrees, but fortunately it never reached the same humidity levels as yesterday. From the halfway point the streets still varied between nice and wide, and fairly narrow with sharp turns, but with only marathoners left if wasn’t really ever a problem at this point. I was honestly surprised how little support there was for much of the run, the last 3-ish km when we were running through the old part of the city were wild, but other than that there were only few places you felt blown away. Running in the industrial area and on the long stretches along the water (we weren’t even that close to the water so it would probably be more accurate to say “parallel with the shore”) it was almost just you and the other runners and it honestly did make it feel a bit uninspiring and boring at times. 

 

The last few kilometers through the central part of the city.

There was a girl the last 10-ish km who was switching between running and walking. When she was walking I was passing her, and when she was running she was passing me, and like that we leapfrogged along during the last part of the run. Because we were passing each other every 2-3 minutes it was easy to keep track of her: she had fairly thick thighs that rubbed against each other and wearing very short tights. At the hem of her tights, due to the rubbing (and the presence of sweat probably didn’t help, either) she was wearing herself raw. For every pass we made just a bit more blood had spread out on her tights and thighs. I can’t imagine how sore and itchy she has been, but she kept going and didn’t show any signs of wanting to give up. And that was amazing. If you’re not bleeding during a run are you really having a hard time?

As usual I was aiming for a sub-4 hour run and at no point was I worried that the goal would be endangered. I did note around 30-32km that I should probably keep an eye on my pace and make sure that I didn’t slow down much more until closer to the finish line – and I managed that with great(-ish) success: an official finish time of 3:58:14. I did lose quite a bit of time towards the end while hunkering down and focusing on my pace, trying to ignore the many runners overtaking me, but at this point it felt like it was pure routine that got me through with the satisfactory result.

It turned out to be a fairly fast run though the time limit for the run is only 5:30, the shortest I have experienced so far. That meant that out of 5748 runners (which meant that there were more than 9000 halfmarathoners) I came in as 3691 (top 64,21%), 3185 out of 4625 men (top 68,86%) and 464 out of 622 in my age group (top 74,60%). Definitely not a good relative placement despite my time being in the same neighbourhood as many other of my runs (second worst overall placement only behind Boston at 69,79%) but overall I was happy with my result. And as an added bonus, as the finish area was the same as the starting area I only had a few minutes’ walk to get back to my hotel.

12th – 14th of December – Welcome to Costa del Downpour

The plan was originally to fly out on the 12th early morning directly to Malaga, but a few weeks after booking my flights I was informed that my flight to Malaga had been cancelled and I was moved to a departure on the 10th instead. With a bit of back and forth with the airline I ended up getting a ticket on the 11th in the evening – to Stockholm and on the following morning I would then get a connection to Malaga at 0600. Easy! Having to get up at 0330 to catch a flight should be illegal, but otherwise the trip to Malaga went without a hitch.

We arrived in Malaga a few minutes ahead of schedule and were met with pouring rain. I collected my bag, walked outside and managed to find a covered spot while waiting for the airport bus to get to the city. Getting onto the bus all the windows instantly misted over as everyone, even those that managed to only be in the rain for a few moments to get to the bus, were completely drenched and thereby humidified the entire bus. Luckily the bus’s last stop was a short 5 minute walk from my hotel, so I managed to get there without completely drowning a few minutes before noon. Official check-in time was at 1400, but fortunately they already had a room ready for me so I was able to check in early.

Sitting in my room looking out at the rain I realized that despite napping on the flight I was completely exhausted and couldn’t muster the energy to go out and dressing to handle the weather. So I waited. And waited. It wasn’t until around 1800 there was a break in the rain for more than 5 minutes, and at around 1830 when it was still dry I got my stuff and went for a walk. I wandered down to the harbor front a few minutes away checking out the restaurants before turning around and going up to the central old part of the city that turned out to be filled with restaurants. I found a place and was seated outdoors under a tarp with a plate of paella. And maybe half an hour of sitting there we got a couple of extra buckets of rain but at least I stayed dry while eating and seeing people running around trying to find cover. Fortunately it didn’t last too long and had stopped when I had finished eating and left the restaurant. But the temperatures had dropped quite significantly since I had arrived so I decided to just head back to the hotel.

Pathways at Alcazaba.

 

The following day I went down to the runner’s expo at the cruise terminal and picked up my kit for the brunch run and marathon. I successfully managed to changed my L shirt to an XL – the shirts were quite smaller sizes than I had expected, relatively to the sizes you were handed for the Valencia half.

View of the old part of the city from Gibralfaro castle.

From the cruise terminal I left the harbor area and walked up to the Gibralfaro castle which gave some nice views of the city and surrounding areas despite some dark low-hanging clouds around the nearby mountains. The castle itself was ok – it isn’t much more than a slightly bent rectangular shaped outer wall with the occasional tower so after the walk along the walls there wasn’t much else to see. It does sound a bit boring but the views you had from up there were quite nice. From there I descended to the central part and entered the Alcazaba, another castle further down and closer to the harbor. The two are connected originally – and still are with the walls going all the way – but the ground conditions between the two are so poor that you have to visit them separately. While Gibralfaro didn’t have much to see, Alcazaba was significantly more interesting to walk around in. There were a lot of different buildings, narrow walkways and gardens so it was fairly easy to get confused about where you were in the moment. It wasn’t much of an issue, though, as there was plenty to look at, and only paying €5,5 for a double ticket it was hard being unhappy with the experience.

Alcazaba with the roman theater outside.

I spent the remainder of the day walking around in the area before getting dinner. Following this I wandered around enjoying the Christmas lighting and having a walk up to the castle to see mostly the harbor area by night.

 Two towers in Malaga.

 

Christmas lighting.

The following morning at 1030 I left for the cruise terminal where the brunch run would start at 1100. A short 4,5km run along the harbor front back and forth was a nice shakeout but at this time of day it had gotten quite warm and humid, and it made me worry that the end of the marathon tomorrow would be as bad (relatively speaking). Crossing the finishing line we got a banana and a bottle of water. Amazing brunch! Too be clear; I don’t expect a complete buffet but calling it a brunch run you can’t not get some kind of expectation – otherwise why not just call it a morning or shakeout run? I remember the end of the Berlin and Paris breakfast runs, and especially the latter’s challenge wasn’t completing the run but rather balancing all the stuff you were handed afterwards without dropping anything. 

Returning to the hotel I went out for a short walk, intentionally staying outside of the old part of the city, but honestly those areas didn’t seem particularly interesting. I definitely preferred walking around in the old part. Dinner was had at the water front near the hotel so it was quick and easy to get done and return to the hotel afterwards.

SuperHalfs pt. 2

I guess it was just a matter of time, but the SuperHalfs added a new participant in the group of runs. I was happy to complete the original 5 (Copenhagen, Prague, Valencia, Cardiff and Lisbon) in 2022 and getting the "final" medal, assuming I by doing that finished this challenge. 

But alas, that was not to be. A new run has been added to the group, increasing the number of SuperHalfs to 6. It also means, though, by running the 6th I get another fancy final medal. The old 5-run medal is rmeoved from circulation so there is only one final medal, making the original a rarity. Fancy! Also, I'm making all this sound like it's a bad thing.

4th-5th of April
Flying out to Berlin on a Friday planning on only a short extended weekend. I had actually looked into taking the train instead, but realizing how long it'd take and the number of changes needed I realized it wasn't worth my time - especially considering the price difference on top of that. I'm glad I have been fairly quick at booking hotels as the one I ended up booking at close to the start and finish area is already sold out half a year in advance.

6th of April
The Berlin half marathon has very similar - if not identical - start and finish like the marathon; we start off in Tiergarten going west past the Siegessäule and finishing coming through the Brandenburger Tor. On the way we will be passing Schloß Charlottenburg, crossing Lietzensee, passing Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche and crossing Potsdamer Platz before passing Berliner Dom before reaching Brandenburger Tor and the finish line. The runners get sent off past 10 so at least it's not an too early start.

7th of April
Flying back home, hopefully not too sore considering it's "only" a half marathon and having more runs planned in the following months.

Remembering back to the marathon in 2019 I'm expecting plenty of support along the way and a very well-executed event. It'll be a nice trip.

4th – 7th – Post race and return home

There was a diner only a few streets away from the hotel so that was the obvious choice for dinner after the run. Why walk further than absolutely necessary when your legs have a hard time cooperating?

The following two days I spent being a tourist and visited the National History Museum and the Bronx Zoo. I had visited the National History Museum before but it’s quite extensive so I wanted to visit it again and maybe check up on things I may have missed the last time. And dinosaurs are always fun looking at. 

Stegosaurus.

Tyrannosaurus Rex.

The Bronx Zoo was quite the experience; it’s basically a very large park in which they have installed multiple large cages or fenced areas where most animals have a lot of space to move around in (relative to the fact it’s a zoo). I think the only thing I had a real issue with was the collection of semi-exotic birds outside that were placed in fairly small cages. I feel like every zoo has a setup like this, regardless of where you are. It was otherwise nice to see the seemingly good conditions the animals were living in. Unfortunately this also meant you had to do a lot of walking to get around – minor unfortunate downside of an otherwise good experience. There is always the “eek” about having animals in cages for our entertainment, but if you do it this was the way to do so.

They had this wheel of fortune thing to show what you could experience as a penguin. 

For a child friendly zoo, some of these are very dark. I loved it.

 

 An excellent visual way of showing the fragile life of 100 robins. 100 eggs, 74 hatchlings, 52 fledglings and 10 adults. 

And descriptions for why those gone disappeared (cold, eaten, etc.).

I spent more than 5 hours at the zoo and when they closed at 1630 I had to rush the last parts before leaving. It was a ½ hour ride with the subway from the hotel, and leaving the zoo I took the subway south for an hour ending up in Brooklyn to check out the night views of Manhattan before crossing Brooklyn bridge with all the other tourists having the same idea as me.

 

Dinner at Katz's Delicatessen: a Reuben sandwich. Even better than it looks!

A place known by most without knowing it. "I want what she's having" should give you a hint.

The Wednesday was the last day in the city with a flight out in the late afternoon. I didn’t want to plan much so I did a late checkout from the hotel, went down to the pizza place further down the street and used my last cash on a slice and soda, before having a walk around midtown and ending up back and Penn station and returning to the airport. Got there a bit earlier than planned – but better too early than a bit late – so I hung out in the lounge seeing it slowly completely fill until my departure. Wasn’t such a bad thing getting there early after all.

The flight home went well and arrived back the next day in the early morning, had a long nap and finished off the day with a port tasting. I slept very well that night. Overall this had been a nice trip back to New York and running the marathon there again, but I do not expect to return again for that purpose. I would rather spend my money and time on different destinations, and while I didn’t reach the goal of getting a sub-4 hour run I did improve my time enough to get my average down below 4 hours. And that was good enough for me.

Full album can be seen here.

3rd of November – New York marathon

The alarm went off at 0430 and I met up with a couple of people in the hotel reception and left at 0520 to go to the pickup location where we got onto a bus that took us to the starting area. As opposed to Boston they used tourist busses and not school busses so there was plenty of leg room available for the 1½ hour drive. It wasn’t because it was far away but the last half hour we were stuck in a queue of busses letting runners off. Getting there around 0730 meant there was quite the wait until my wave started at 1020. The wait time was spent walking around in the huge starting area trying to stay warm; while the temps would be around 10-12 degrees during the run it was barely half that as long as you weren’t standing in the wind, so a lot of the time was spent trying to find a place where you’d be in the sun but out of the wind – but when you found a spot like that it was quite nice. There were free handouts of bagels, coffee, teas, water and energy drinks. The New York marathon is the one I have experienced with the most of such things and plenty of similarly large runs would be very welcome to feel inspired by this.

At 0945 the corrals were opened, 15 minutes later they were closed again and a few moments later we were all channeled from the corrals forward to the starting line. With 5 starting waves there would be an average of app. 11.000 people getting ready to run at this moment.

Crossing the Verrazzano bridge.

With the national anthem sung (of not for that and all the flags, how would we even know we were in the US?) we were finally let go at 1020. We started by leaving the first borough (Long Island) by crossing the Verrazzano bridge from where we had an excellent clear view of the south end of Manhattan. The was a slight cold breeze but barely a cloud, so conditions were nice. After the bridge we passed a 2-mile sign and I couldn’t help myself proclaiming “don’t worry – only 24 miles to go!”. The woman running next to me gave me a look that showed without a doubt that she was not nearly as enthused by that comment as I was. Tough crowd.

Crossing the bridge we entered Brooklyn and from there it was mostly just a straight line north, passing through Queens, before crossing Queensboro Bridge into Manhattan. Even if there was a unitedness in the boroughs themselves, styles, visual expressions and the level of support changed on an almost street by street basis. It was constantly changing and plenty for a runner to look at and take in, especially for someone who wasn’t local, but what they all had in common was at times overwhelming support for the runners.

With few exceptions there were water stations at every mile which meant it was easy skipping half. This seemed to be a common theme among the runners, and it also helped take some of the pressure off the stations with the numerous participants. I noticed in the beginning that the stations seemed quite short relative to how many people ran, but considering most people skipped a few here and there it made sense. Towards the end the temperatures had risen enough that getting a sip of water at every station seemed justified (and appreciated), but at least the humidity never got to the level as it had been on Friday morning. That would have been horrible.

Reaching Manhattan we were met by a wall of noise. A mile on the bridge made you get used to the silence except for the footsteps, but reaching 1st avenue you were met with countless loud spectators welcoming us to Manhattan – an almost shocking experience if you weren’t prepared for it. Running up 1st avenue all the way to the Bronx is rough; mostly mentally because you can see very far ahead and it’s hard to ignore the fact that you can see an incline almost all the way. It isn’t steep at all and you probably wouldn’t feel it if you couldn’t see it under normal circumstances, but it just keeps going forever. You just have to dig down, grab the occasional water and let the support and routine carry you forward. You crossed the 25km mark on the middle of Queensboro Bridge so there was still a bit to go from here.

Crossing the bridge back into Manhattan after the Bronx.

Reaching the Bronx we basically did a few miles large 180 degree turn before returning to Manhattan where we now were running south, reaching Central Park and running through the southern part of it, ran along the south end, coming through Columbus Circle before reentering the park and running the last 400 meters before crossing the finish line.

Running through Central Park 2km and change before the finish.

Reaching the finish line.

From there there was still a bit of walking left to get our medals, snacks and ponchos before being able to find an exit and leave the finishing area. From the finish line and to leaving was probably a few kilometers and getting to the hotel was another 2ish kilometers. I could have taken the subway but that would have required me to walk on stairs, and in this case I preferred having to walk a bit more instead. Back at the hotel I had a shower followed by collapsing onto the bed. It felt good not doing much for a few hours.

Anyways, numbers! I finished in 4:03:14. So my usual goal of sub-4 hours wasn’t met, but to be honest this wasn’t expected, either. But it does mean that I improved my time from the last time I ran New York with more than 8 minutes which was nice. This also means that the average finish time for my 6 completed marathon majors is 3:59:28 which is an extra bonus. I can’t be disappointed with that. I ended up finishing as 20141 out of 55530 overall (top 36,27%), 14304 out of 30702 men (top 46,59%) and 2147 out of 4287 in M40-44 (top 50,08%). Also 57 out of 111 Danes (top 51,35%). Overall a result I am happy with. The average man ran it in 4:17:48 and average woman in 4:48:29. The fastest was a Dutch guy who did it in 2:07:39, the slowest an American woman in 11:47:55, youngest a Danish 18 years old women and oldest an 88 years old New Zealander man.

30th October – 2nd of November – Return to the Apple

As expected the flight to New York went without a hitch. We left on time at 1300 and arrived at Newark a few minutes early around 1630. I’ve heard of less than flattering stories about the airport but within 25 minutes after leaving the plane I was standing out in the arrival hall, half an hour later I had located the airport train and arrived at the train station, and from there I grabbed a train to Manhattan Penn Station from where I walked to the hotel where I checked in at 1800. The entire process ended up being much smoother and problem free than I had mentally planned for.

On my first full day in the city I went to the runners’ expo to pick up my bib and race kit. As usual it was big and extensive. It was quick to pick up my stuff and afterwards I spent some time meandering among the numerous booths selling various running-related (and less running-related things, too). It’s always weird seeing people selling jewelry and old-fashioned watches at a runners’ expo. 

My name on the World Marathon Majors list!

From there I had a walk around in Central park before moving south and wandering somewhat aimlessly. I ended up having dinner at a small pizza place with way too much cheese on the pizza, so I decided to spend the next 1½ hours walking back to the hotel instead of taking the subway, just to feel not too bad about having that dinner. But reaching 6th avenue I was stopped in my tracks as the street being completely blocked off due to the annual Halloween parade that was about to start. I decided to stand and wait to have a watch instead of trying to find a way around – something that would be near impossible as there were no bridges across the avenue so the only other option would be to take the subway. It was 2 hours of floats with a bit too much spacing in between so there was a fair bit of waiting involved. I was glad I ended up seeing it, but it also felt like if I had missed it, it wouldn’t have been the greatest tragedy. 

The following morning at 0700 a small group from the travel group at the hotel did a morning run to the finish area in Central Park and a short detour into the park to see the Lennon memorial before returning to the hotel. A nice 7km run – but at this time of day it was already 20 degrees and filthily humid. Yesterday it reached 27ish and today seems to end up being similar. Fortunately the humidity seemed to have topped in the early morning.

The day was spent getting all the way south down to and around the 9/11 memorial, circling the south part of Manhattan before wandering back north towards the hotel along the Hudson River. Dinner was had at a local smash burger place before visiting Edge – a new panorama view at 101st floor located next to and on top of Hudson Yards. Almost in the middle between the financial district down town and south end of Central Park giving a good view of both clusters of tall buildings. The platform was outside with 3ish meter tall glass walls but with limited reflections so everything considered the conditions weren’t bad. I did get pretty stressed out by people leaning up against the glass. I know they are durable and stable, but why tempt fate like that?

The following day, Saturday, I walked along the Hudson River before reaching the north end of the High Line which I went onto and followed to its south end. A subway line now closed made into a green walking path at around 3rd floor. With the weather as it was and leaves still on the trees it was a really nice walk in spite of the crowds who had gotten the same idea. I recall doing this on my previous visits, so I’m not winning any points for originality, but this is probably the greenest walk I’ve had on the line.

I ended up at the 9/11 memorial again and this time I visited the Oculus – a modern building that’s a mall and subway station. Style-wise it doesn’t feel like New York at all; bright, white and clean – almost clinically so. Felt more like something you’d see in an oil state where you build flashy buildings. Absolutely no personality at all. 

 The Oculus.

 The Oculus from the inside. Looks fancy and all, but does fit with the surrounding buildings, I think.

 

For dinner I visited a restaurant in Little Italy and arriving at 1800 for my reservation it was complete mayhem. But waiting for a bit I got my table and getting seated things seemed to settle down a bit. Until when I was about to finish my dinner where a large party was seated next to me. I quickly finished up, paid and got out of there and returned to the hotel in an attempt to have an early night before the run tomorrow.

31st of August – Stavanger marathon

The run started at 0830 and with 5 minute walk from the hotel I set the alarm at 0700 to have plenty of time. And good I did: I woke up when the alarm went off and then apparently fell asleep again after turning off the alarm instead of snoozing it. I woke up half an hour later, so due to the good time I have given myself there wasn’t any worry about it, but there was a smidgen of panic there for a moment, realizing how bad it could have gone.

I showed up at the start around 0815 where people were getting ready. With the size of the run it all seemed very informal; a starting portal with a few fences leading into it and then just the open plaza in front of the cathedral where people were hanging out – both runners and onlookers – waiting for the start. A few minutes before the start the pacers (3:30, 3:45, 4:00 and 4:15 positioned themselves and pretty much immediately people gathered around and behind their chosen pacer. It felt surprisingly calm and orderly. I positioned myself with the 3:45 – my goal was the usual sub-4 hours despite the hilly course, but I wanted to stay ahead of the 4:00 pacers as long as possible and my plan was to have the 3:45 pacer to pull me for as long as possible, maybe 10ish km, so I could start the run with a bit of a margin to my goal.

And then – without too much fanfare – we were off on time at 0830.

And we were off!

The past days it had been overcast, chilly, windy and with regular showers and drizzles. Today the sky was clear, cool wind and temps around 13-17 degrees, so almost perfect running weather. Such a relief as I was worried the weather would have stayed lousy making the run a completely different experience.

Being in the center of Stavanger the first part of the run took us zig-zagging through residential areas (and up!) before reaching a forest path which we followed for maybe 15ish km circling the major lakes of the course (Store Stokkavatnet and Hålandsvatnet). There were definitely several ups and downs along the way, and seeing how people just seemed to race downhill was intimidating Despite being forest it was mostly open out towards the lake, resulting in some beautiful views, helped along by the weather.

To my big surprise I managed to keep up with the pacer – even easily so, it felt like. I realized at one point that in the beginning she was setting a relatively aggressive pace that would be more fitting for the 3:30 pacer, and yet I had no problems keeping up. She did though settle at a more appropriate pace at around 10ish km.

Reaching the half-way point we had returned into residential areas and the pacer for the group was replaced by a fresh runner. I was starting to fall a bit behind at this point and could see the group ahead of me, and in the few minutes it took them to swap equipment (flag and small backpack with snacks for desperate runners) the group that had followed the pacer so far seemed to completely fall apart now that they were left on their own. The new pacer caught up with the remainder of the group and things got relatively settled again, but it never got back to its former self again. It was a but funny to see, when you got a glimpse of the other pacers; people stuck to them like glue and especially during the first half there were very few people on their own so it just looked like a couple of groups of runners out and about, and not a full-fledged marathon.

Staring to fall behind of the pacer didn’t bother me too much, as this was something I had been planning on happening for quite a while. The biggest surprise was that it had taken this long before it happening, and in spite of falling behind I was still running faster (20-30sec/km) than I had expected to do at this point. So I kept pushing on and looking ahead I noticed the pace groups slowly getting smaller, slowly falling apart as runners no longer could keep up with their pacers. At least I wasn’t the only one – which shouldn’t have been surprising at all.

The conditions were excellent!

Most of the second half of the course overlapped with the half marathon course, and those runners were started 40-55 minutes after us. This meant that we wouldn’t risk getting passed by fast fresh half marathoners when we were struggling towards the end (like what happened in Tromsø), but on the other hand it was a huge morale boost when I at one point with app. 8km left started catching up with the slowest half marathoners. That felt really good!

Running along the water’s edge, and passing the 3 swords, in what turned out to be in amazing weather, was simply a great experience. Even if I was gradually getting slower it just felt good. It’s rare that I past 30km feel this optimistic despite my legs were getting predictably heavy at this point. Around the same time I realized my projected finish time would be around 3:48 and while I didn’t expect it to hold until the finish line I did let myself be carefully optimistic due to how I was feeling. The prediction actually didn’t change much to my surprise until I passed the 35km mark and even then it didn’t drop more than a few minutes. At this point I realized that unless something unexpected happened I would be finishing in less than 4 hours, and maybe, maybe I would be able to get close to my PR from Loch Ness of 3:52:52.

With 4km to go we were back in Stavanger and going along streets, and keeping half an eye on my time things were looking positive. Fighting the last few hills (not nearly as tall as those in the forests but they felt much worse) we soon arrived at the lake at the bottom of the hill where the cathedral was located. Getting to the far end all you had to do was circle the cathedral and cross the finish line on the other side – and ascend the hill at the same time. One last push. The last 300m was a rough ascent (looking back it wasn’t nearly as bad as I make it sound) before taking a sharp right turn and 100m straight across the finish line.

Realizing there was a hill to conquer before getting to the finish line.

The finish line was as informal as the starting line. Someone handed you your medal, a table with drinks, one with bananas and one with chocolate buns. There were barely any people otherwise, due to the limited number of participants there wasn’t really a crowd, and I waddled about, grabbed my stuff, left and carefully got myself back to the hotel which somehow had moved so it now took more than double the time to cover the distance than this morning. Weird.

 

The altitude not being super reliable as the start and finish was the same place.

I ended up crossing the finish line in 3:52:33, a 20 second improvement from Loch Ness – and that PR was from a course where the first half was downhill. This course was 352-375m up and down so far from flat, so while I was hoping for a sub-4 hour result I was not expecting a result like this. This was definitely a very nice surprise! I came in as 141 out of 393 overall (top 35,88%), 124 of 314 men (top 39,49%) and 15 out of 29 among M40-44 (top 51,72%). A much better result than expected and unnecessary to say I am very happy about it all! The first crossing the finish line did so at 2:33:03, the last at 5:59:40. The latter makes me believe they took the 6-hour limit seriously, whereas other runs let you finish but after the time limit they open up the streets again and you’re pretty much on your own until you reach the finish line. 

Full album can be seen here.

Nordic marathons

My runs have brought me to places far away from home, and while it has resulted in amazing trips it sometimes also makes it quite the undertaking outside of the run itself. It would be nice that I at least once in a while managed to plan a bit more convenient trip to find a run instead of having to fly half way around the world.

So a new project has seen the light of day; running marathons in the capitals of the 5 Nordic countries - Copenhagen (Denmark), Stockholm (Sweden), Oslo (Norway), Helsinki (Finland) and Reykjavik (Iceland). I am considering also including the 3 autonomous territories Faroe Islands (Denmark), Greenland (Denmark) and Åland (Finland).

The 3 latter are a bit harder to do; while the Faroe Islands have an annual half and full marathon, Åland sometimes cancel their run due to lack of interest and Greenland, well - there is an annual marathon which I would consider an extreme run which I'm not to keen on, so I may have to try and find a half marathon instead if there is one (which I believe Nuuk has annually).

Some have already been run, some have recently been planned and others are still up in the air. The schedule is currently as follows:

Copenhagen - May 2019
Stockholm - May 2025
Oslo - September 2025
Helsinki - TBA
Reykjavik - TBA

Faroe Islands - June 2019
Greenland - TBA
Åland - TBA

A small project compared to my other runs (past and likely future), but sometimes you just need to scale down and relax. Which I know is a bit of a contradiction when talking about running marathons. Oh, well. 

Gothenburg half marathon

Apparently there is a rumor going around that I enjoy running and I have no idea how it has started. I have some family in Gothenbrug and at one point he contacted me and pointed out that they have an annual half marathon, and not only that it's among the largest in the world with between 50.000 and 70.000 registered runners every year.

Not much else was necessary for me to be convinced it would be a good idea to go. I'm apparenly easy like that.

17th of May
It's a late start - the first at let go at 1300 and with the high number of runners the last group is sent off at 1600. With my estimated start time around 1:45 I'm assuming I'll in a group starting some time between 1400 and 1500, but only time will tell. The race starts near Slottskogsvallen stadium and finishes inside it. The course takes the runners across the river on Ävlsborgbron followed largely by running along the water northbound before reaching Hisingbron and crossing the river again back to the southern side. Here we will pass Linnéplatsen before skirting along Slottsskogen before finishing in the stadium. With the (potential) number of runners I expect the support to be great for the entire run, but never having run in Sweden before I don't know how they are cheering-wise so that'll be interesting to see.

So another run, but at least I have found one that doesn't require a lot of travel coordination and long travel times. 

Running and kitties

I have a colleague who is/was an ultrarunner but focuses on marathons these days ("you get on the world ranking list after 300 marathons!") who mentioned in passing that he every year runs the Malaga marathon in December. Guess who didn't need much more convincing than that to join a run?

The Iberian lynx is a species of lynx which is - surprise, surprise - only present on the Iberian peninsula so I have recently tried to look up photo tours that would hunt for these. Unfortunately all tours are focused around the winter which has never really suited my schedule when looking at it, but with this run in December it was an almost perfect setup to add a bit of safari'ing to my run.

12th-14th of December
Flying to Malaga early morning (via Stockholm as my flight from Copenhagen was cancelled) means I have plenty of time on arrival - on the other hand it means a very early morning at the airport. I expect to be sleeping most of the flight - after being fed, obviously. Malaga is apparently quite impressive during Christmas with all the lights so that will be an adventure, but otherwise I suspect I will spending most of the time wandering as I usually do. There is a breakfast run on the Saturday, or rather a brunch run; starting at 1100 they have figured out how to be nice and not starting horribly early for a simple 5km run.

15th of December
The day of the marathon. The start and finish is in Parque de Malaga 5 minutes from the hotel (one might suspect that was intentionally booked!). From there you run app. 3km west along Av. de Andalucia before turning towards the water and following it back and going out and back at the ferry terminal. From there we continue east to Arroyo Jaboneras where we more or less do a 180 and return the same way from where we came. Follow the coast all the way to Guadalhorce where we turn inland, cross Av. de Andalucia, follow Guadalmedina north until the distance fits and we do another 180 and return to the finish area. I've been informed that 20ish degrees is fairly common this time of year so it'll be quite warm for a run, but I'm hoping the time along the water will result in a breeze that can help us cool down a bit.

16th - 20th of December
The following morning I'll be picked up at the hotel by the gudie at we will drive a few hours north through Cordoba to just outside Sierra de Andujar national park. Here we'll be staying until Thursday and in the mean time we'll be going on drives trying to find the elusive lynx. There are obviously many other animals and birds to look at but the lynx is the main event of the tour. Coming back to Malaga thursday afternoon I'll spend an extra night in the city before flying out on the 15th before lunch.

Focusing on running trips wildlife trips have unfortunately been down prioritized a bit in recent years, so with a trip like this I get to combine both hobbies into one trip. It's a win/win! 

26th – 30th – Tokyo pt. 2 and return home

On the Tuesday – the 26^th – I woke up to pouring rain and no matter how much I willed it to not rain it just kept coming down. As it seemed to become a wet full day I decided to spend as much time as possible indoors. So I took the train back to Ueno park where I headed towards the National Museum. Seeing the queue outside I gave up on that idea and instead went to the National History Museum just next door which had no outdoor queue.

The museum was similar to any other national history museum you’d visit – going through history, evolution and everything in between. The museum was spread out on multiple floors so the exhibition was quite large. There was even a floor where they presented Japanese Nobel winners, scientific techniques and similar. It was all very interesting , and it would have been even more so if they had translated more than 5% of all the texts (and that’s a very generous 5%) describing what was shown or exhibited. That fact was unfortunately a bit disappointing.

Following this I returned outside into the still pouring rain and headed towards the National Museum where the queue had shortened somewhat. Getting inside I deposited my wet jacket and bag into a coin locker (which were common to see almost everywhere in museums) before starting my walk around. It went through art and culture for the last 40.000 years – basically from when the first people arrived in Japan (based on archeological finds). They also had a nice small collection of samurai swords – design and workmanship of most of them was beautiful. There was a lot of care put into design. Funnily they didn’t mention anywhere that the reason why the folded the iron so many times (resulting in the beautiful layered patterns) was to build strength into the weapon when using Japanese iron which is generally of very poor quality. Getting halfway through the top floor the time turned 1700 and they informed the guests that they were closing. Woops. So I rushed through the rest, but seeing that most of it looked like mostly clothes and dying of these so I don’t think I missed much relative to my own interests. The overall experience was so-so; at least they had translated all texts to English but it felt very dry throughout the exhibition. It was borderline boring at times, also compared to other similar museums – I didn’t feel it was the content itself that was uninteresting.

I left the building – and it was still pouring down – and took the train to Shibuya where I after a wet search finally managed to find a place for dinner before returning to the hotel.

The following day the weather was the complete opposite; sun, warm and barely a cloud. I left the hotel with a bit more optimism than yesterday and started off on a roof terrace on 3^rd floor putting me at eyelevel of the shinkansen trains going by nearby, just south of Tokyo station. Unfortunately only the white ones came by this way as the more colorful ones primarily go north. Apart from me there were 3 local elderly men, all with their own cameras who looked like they took it very seriously – trainspotting is apparently quite popular in Japan. The roof – 9^th floor – of a mall next to Tokyo station was the next stop. Great view of the station building with its 20+ tracks and the plaza in front facing the imperial palace. Unfortunately the shinkansen were on the far tracks so despite getting to see a larger variety of trains – including the northbound more colorful ones – the position for actually seeing anything was less advantageous. 

 

Tokyo station.

With the cherry blossom season being postponed with 1-1½ weeks compared to just a few weeks ago I decided that even a little would also be fine. So I headed towards Shinjuku park where a few trees were already blooming. If you were colorblind you’d still know exactly what trees were in bloom as they attracted hordes of people surrounding them gave it away. Only a handful of the hundreds of trees were blooming, but they showed colors from light pink to a very intense dark pink – almost red. Those that were blooming were beautiful and several of them were occupied by birds jumping around in them and feeding on the flowers. 

 

Japanese white-eye.

 

 

Brown-eared bulbul.

 

 

If you can't make up your mind whether you want red or white, get both!

From there I went to have lunch before visiting the Meiji shrine in the middle of a forest in Tokyo and because of the surrounding trees it felt calm walking around here despite having a sprawling metropolis just outside. It was built to commemorate (and hold the souls of) Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken who are considered being those who took the initiative to found what we consider modern Japan.

 

Offerings of sake.

 

 

Offerings of Bourgogne wine.

 

The shrine.

From there the walk took me to the moat around the imperial castle, which, if everything had gone according to plan, would have been lined by blooming cherry trees on both sides. Instead there were bare trees illuminated by colored lights. It looked nice but it wasn’t quite the same. 6 people had found 2 small clusters of flowers on a branch, though, which probably made it the most photographed flower cluster in town. 

It looks nice, but not nearly as nice as it could have!

From there I hurried back to the hotel, left my bag and hurried back out to get to my table reservation for sushi omakase at Sushi-ya. 1 chef behind the counter, 3-4 helpers and 8 customers (5 Brazilians, 2 Indonesians and me). It was quite an adventurous 2 hours. I stopped counting at around the 8^th dish but we must have been served around 20 pieces of nigiri, salad, soup, omelet, etc. The chef expertly cut and arranged everything in front of us as we went along, with the occasional shout at the kitchen getting a loud “Hai!” back and moments later someone came out with whatever he had requested, whether it was more rice, fried vegetables, lightly cooked fatty tuna, more drinks or what may have been needed in that certain situation. The helpers were very observant if you needed a water refill or running out of drinks. At one point I accidentally dropped a piece of sushi on the table between the serving plate and myself; I quickly got it back up and wiped the table with my napkin, trying to remove any evidence of my clumsiness. Putting my napkin back where it had been placed I noticed that the chef was halfway with his own napkin but realizing I had been faster than him he instead shouted an order and seconds later a waiter’s hand snuck up next to me from behind, grabbed my napkin and left a new fresh one instead. 

 

The chef presenting fatty, medium and lean bluefin tuna.

We were 8 happy and full customers who left the restaurant 2 hours later. Too bad this will forever shrew my view of what good sushi is (not to mention that the sushi here is so much better and not least significantly cheaper than it is at home!). Absolutely amazing and delicious. Worth the price despite being able to buy many meals at a random running sushi place for the price of this.

The last few days I started seeing what people meant that you could spend a week in Tokyo before you'd feel the need to do something else, and I felt at times I was just walking around trying to kill time and find somewhere that had more blooming cherry trees. I found myself spending time in well known areas like Shibuya and Shinjuku with the constant activity without the (unhinged) chaos, returning to Shinjuku park on the last day to realize that just those few days since last visit was enough to notice many more trees blooming (but still a fraction of what was to come) and taking in the mood there. Something I hadn't done yet was trying to get some skyline photos of the city which was hard to find as there weren't many good places with enough space that you were able to take in the entire view without getting obstructed by buildings. During the day walking around near where my first hotel was located I realized a pedestrian path had been constructed along the water which gave the exact view I had been hoping for. On that last night in Japan I got myself out there, enjoyed the silence of being almost alone and took in the views - and there being barely a cloud on the sky improved the experience. It was probably one of the few nights here in Tokyo where the sky was clear. Great timing.

This is how nigiri is supposed to be: plenty of fish, a little rice. Not the other way round!

 

 

Coming back into the center after getting my shots I was looking for a place with pork katsu. Unfortunately, getting there close to 2200 most restaurants were closing and I saw my chance of getting my last portion of pork katsu slipping through my fingers. I ended up having to settle for ramen - and using the word "settling" about ramen is an hyperbole; while it wasn't pork katsu it was still pretty damn tasty.

The following early morning I checked out from my hotel, grabbed the train to the airport, checked in and flew home without a hitch. Big thanks to The Equalizer 3, J Edgar Hoover, The Marvels, Barbie and Ferrari for entertaining me along the way when I wasn't sleeping.

What a trip this was! I didn't quite know what to expect other than the marathon and food, but I was blown away by the entire thing. I came home after 4½ weeks with amazing memories which I hope I one day get to experience once again - maybe go for a trekking trip which there are plenty of possibilities to do in the wilder areas of the country. Or, if for nothing else, then for the ramen, pork katsu and sushi.

Full album can be seen here.