17th – The walk of passes

The morning started as usual with the exception that we from the very beginning prepared ourselves for rain on today’s walk.

We started following the path we had taken yesterday for acclimatization but when reaching yesterday’s stop we kept going up towards the pass. After a slow but steady ascent we reached the Stok La pass at 4900m. During the morning it had been raining on/off but at this point it had turned into a more continuous pour with the occasional mix of hail. From our elevated location at the pass we could see the path continuing down and up crossing the next pass before disappearing from sight. After a short break and enjoying the view from the Stok La pass we continued towards the next pass in line and when we reached our lunch spot we had crossed 4 passes after Stok La of decreasing height. What didn’t decrease was the rain, but around the last pass, half an hour before lunch, it suddenly stopped and we almost managed to get completely dry before eating.

The views were astonishing; sharp teeth-like cliffs cutting through the landscape, green surfaces all over the place and a cloud layer that gave it all a bit of magical touch. Often you just couldn’t help but stop and look around trying to convince yourself that it actually was real.

After the break we continued ascending up to 4400m at Mankarmo camp where we ended the day’s walk at around 1400. From there on the rain was occasional and unpredictable, but (as of this writing) never of the amounts that we encountered during the day’s walk.

Tomorrow is base camp at 4900m!

I must confess that I have been using my previous Elbrus trip as mental preparation. This trip has been physically easier than I had expected (summit day will remember that comment and kick my ass). This was the first tough day, and yet we arrived at camp at 1400. Compared to Elbrus that would have been a relatively short and easy day. Most of our afternoons have been quite lazy and inactive and part of me feel that we could have spent them on something. Don’t get me wrong; I love being lazy and doing nothing (especially with those views!), but as those having planned this trip have done it before and know what works I guess the comparison is unfair as the two treks/climbs are of different constructions. Also, on Elbrus we had to be built up from 1000m to 5600m, whereas we here start at 3500m (Leh) before ascending to the summit at 6153m. Maybe I should just stop worrying so much and enjoy the downtimes and views.

I love my Haglöf G-1000 pants; they were completely soaked and one point today, but within half an hour without rain they were back to being nice and dry!

I am less impressed with my North Face shell. The surface treatment given to prevent water from soaking through works as well as a gas cooker without gas. I have washed it several times with special surface treatment and sealant but it seems to wear off after a couple of weeks. Luckily the Gore-Tex membrane prevents the water from reaching all the way through to me, but I can’t say I am fully satisfied. Especially not considering what you have to shell (….) out for these things.

View from second pass. We came from the left side.

Looking towards one of the previous passes.

View from the last pass in the direction where we are going.

Reached the camp site and looking back at where we came from.