25th - Summit day

Out of 17 people in the group, 15 departed for the summit. We had extra guides so that we would be able to split up more, and easier go back with escort without risking someone would end up going towards the top unescorted.

We were split up in two groups; a fast and a slow one. The slow would depart at 0100, the fast at 0200. The goal was to try and get as many at the top at the same time.

I joined the slow group together with 6 others even though it meant getting up at midnight after not much sleep. Departure wasn’t as cold as expected, and we were soon off in the darkness. Physically it wasn’t too hard in the beginning as we knew the area and had been acclimatized to this altitude. Soon things did get harder – and colder. I started having problems keeping my toes warm and at one point I lost feeling in my right foot’s toes. I also started moving slower – much slower. When reaching the traverse on the eastern top things starting getting steep and speed decreased even more. The walk gave some beautiful views of the sunrise and colors that followed. This also included the shadow of Elbrus spreading out over the surrounding mountains.

At around 0815 we reached the saddle between the two summits and at the same time the sun had gotten high enough that we were able to have a break in the saddle in the sun. The saddle is located at the altitude of 5300m, meaning we still had 300 meters to go. We had a full view to the next very steep section of the path which was quite intimidating in my exhausted state. After half an hour’s break we started we started the last part of the walk – the steep ascent on the western summit’s traverse. It was tough, but the advantage was that the sun combined with the exercise warmed up my toes and feet again. After the steep part it flattened making it easier (but still very slow) to walk. After a final steep part (15-20 meters) we were finally on the summit at around 1030.

Despite being exhausted I still took in the view of the surrounding areas and it was breathtaking (maybe that was just the lack of oxygen, though). We spent 10-150 minutes at the top before starting our descent, and even though I could have been standing and enjoying the view all day I was quite happy to leave as it was pretty windy on the top.

Despite going down the pace was still pretty slow due to our physical condition. Coming back to the saddle we had a short break (sun, quiet and no wind) before continuing downwards. Going around the traverse and down the eastern lower summit (it is 21 meters short of the tallest point in Europe) we passed the steepest parts of the path. From here there was almost a slide worn into the snow which meant we could descend 300-400 meters by sitting down. Not always comfortable it was much preferred from walking all the way down.

We finally arrived at Diesel Hut around 1400, finishing the primary goal of the vacation with a 13-hour 1600 meters up and 1600 meters down walk.

Was it amazing? Yes. Was it beautiful? Yes. Was it horribly tough? Yes! Will I ever consider doing it again? Hell no!

At the top!

Max at the top.

View from the top.