29th – Rifugio Bonatti – La Fouly

We left the refuge at around 0800. Bonatti is quite large with a capacity of 100+ guests, but despite that breakfast was done without crowding the buffet during the one hour it was open.

One of the employees at the refuge looks exactly like the actor Zachary Quinto. The likeness is uncanny. I almost suspect it’s him (the actor) who spends his time off from acting.

It was quite chilly in the morning, walking in the shade with a cool breeze added to it. Finally coming out in the sun helped immensely, though (as usual). We spent the first hour or so descending to the bottom of the valley. Here we had a short break before starting the long ascent to Grand Col Ferret, the tallest point on our route. On the way we passed by Rifugio Elena where we had another short (and needed) break.

Reaching the col after the long ascent rewarded us with sun and a clear view back into Italy and into Switzerland with the border going straight along the col. With the time being around 1300 it was the perfect time and place for lunch, with lunch packs from Bonatti. Disappointing buns, some chocolate and a huge muffin.

We spent the first couple of hours descending 

which meant we obviously had to go back up again.

Having a break at Grand Col Ferret, the highest point of the tour.

The descent into Switzerland was never very steep but rather a gradual descent over a long period. After app. 3 hours we arrived at La Fouly and our final destination for the day. And once again, when entering the premises, I had flashbacks from the last time I was here.

Before Courmayeur my calves and thighs were almost constantly sore. Now, after the rest day, despite my worries, I have no issues with them other than normal exhaustion. That’s pretty nice, to be honest.

When doing the trek you tend to bump into the same people doing the route. At the refuge here in La Fouly we sat down with an American couple (Nicole & Shane) we have been meeting almost daily. They are very friendly and they apparently met 10 years ago on a 5-month trek on the Appalachian Trail and now were on their honeymoon. Both of them are in very good shape but Shane is muscular. So much so that when they were posing for a photo at Rifugio Bertone and he flexed I blurted out “Oh god I feel so small” which made the guide standing next to me almost fall over laughing.