31st – Trient – Chamonix

The plan was to start early today as the weather forecast said there would be a risk of thunderstorm. You do not want to get caught out in the open with no protection within reach when lightning starts hitting (it’s a shocking experience, I’ve heard). So at around 0730 we left the refuge in pouring rain. The plan was to reach Col de Balme as soon as possible and from there look at the current weather and decide whether to take a quick or slower path down into the Chamonix valley and catch a bus or train depending on timing back to the hotel in Chamonix.

This was a perfect example why you shouldn't trust the time estimates on the signs placed along the route.

The climb up to Col de Balme was a fairly long one but when crossing the tree line it had stopped raining so that helped a bit. Arriving at the col any potential thunderstorms looked far away so we decided to take a detour past a refuge which had, according to rumors, an amazing dessert platter.

On arrival we found out that because we left our refuge as early as we did in the morning we arrived before the kitchen opened. Luckily they were still able to make the platters so it was a success after all. If it hadn’t been for the threat of thunderstorms we would have used this place for lunch. Instead, after finishing our platters (coffee/chocolate, nut/honey cake, apricot crumble, ice cream, chocolate mousse, whipped cream) we were soon on our way again towards the bottom of the valley.

Around two hours later, at 1345 we arrived at Montroc train station. Perfect timing as the hourly train towards Chamonix departs at minute 48. Half an hour later we were back in Chamonix, ending the trek. We had a late lunch before checking back into the hotel and had much needed showers. The weather had just been improving all the time since the rain ended in the morning but at this point the weather quickly degenerated and we got a massive shower with lightning. It didn’t last long, though, and this was the only time we saw the forecast fabled thunderstorms.

When returning to Chamonix Aiguille du Midi decided to show itself for just a short moment.

Back in Chamonix, waiting for (late) lunch.

We went out for dinner in a restaurant located in a cellar (so much lovely cheese in a cheese fondue – strange) after which some of us went out for a few drinks. It was almost a perfect recipe for a joke; “Two Brits, a Kiwi and a Dane enters a bar…”. Returning to the hotel at 0130 was a bit later than I had planned for myself.

30th – La Fouly – Trient

We left the refuge around 0800 to take a bus to Champex (with a change in Orsiere). The second leg of the trip was a steep ascent, obviously saving us from walking that part. At around 0930 we were ready to start today’s walk.

Last time I did this we only took a bus to Praz de Fort (app. half way to Orsiere) after which we walked the long ascent to Champex and continued where we started the day’s walk and the rest of the day identical. I would like to point out that we were not the only trekkers taking the bus on this leg of the trip. While part of me feels like we cheated taking the bus this far there were another part of me screaming “Oh thank [deity]!”. Because not only was that part steep, until we reached our lunch stop we were not doing much else than ascending and ascending some more – and that lunch break was not far after reaching Champex.

So due to the long bus ride we only had a couple of hours of ascent before we came out of the trees and out on the open, traversing with a view that was a bit marred by clouds, heavy ones, even. At around 1300 we reached a small farm, Bovine, where we had an amazing rösti with cheese and bacon followed by delicious pie. Our guide said that it wasn’t nearly as busy as usual (there were plenty of benches and tables outside that should have been occupied but were empty) which might explain the huge portions of potatoes/cheese we had. It was fantastic and also very heavy, but luckily the rest of the day would be mostly downhill. When leaving the place there were not many who weren’t burping potatoes and cheese.

From here we spent around 3 hours descending to Trient, the town with the pink church. Rain had been promised for the afternoon and we did get quite the occasional drizzle. Not enough to drown us but enough to be inconvenient and make most of us don waterproofs. 

It’s obvious this place is in a town; plenty of very hot water and wifi though some people seem unhappy with the pillows in the room. Fortunately, it seems we are alone in a 16 bed room (being a group of 8 that’s not bad) so it’s possible to sneak an extra pillow to your bed. Because, I’ll admit, the pillows are a bit thin.

29th – Rifugio Bonatti – La Fouly

We left the refuge at around 0800. Bonatti is quite large with a capacity of 100+ guests, but despite that breakfast was done without crowding the buffet during the one hour it was open.

One of the employees at the refuge looks exactly like the actor Zachary Quinto. The likeness is uncanny. I almost suspect it’s him (the actor) who spends his time off from acting.

It was quite chilly in the morning, walking in the shade with a cool breeze added to it. Finally coming out in the sun helped immensely, though (as usual). We spent the first hour or so descending to the bottom of the valley. Here we had a short break before starting the long ascent to Grand Col Ferret, the tallest point on our route. On the way we passed by Rifugio Elena where we had another short (and needed) break.

Reaching the col after the long ascent rewarded us with sun and a clear view back into Italy and into Switzerland with the border going straight along the col. With the time being around 1300 it was the perfect time and place for lunch, with lunch packs from Bonatti. Disappointing buns, some chocolate and a huge muffin.

We spent the first couple of hours descending 

which meant we obviously had to go back up again.

Having a break at Grand Col Ferret, the highest point of the tour.

The descent into Switzerland was never very steep but rather a gradual descent over a long period. After app. 3 hours we arrived at La Fouly and our final destination for the day. And once again, when entering the premises, I had flashbacks from the last time I was here.

Before Courmayeur my calves and thighs were almost constantly sore. Now, after the rest day, despite my worries, I have no issues with them other than normal exhaustion. That’s pretty nice, to be honest.

When doing the trek you tend to bump into the same people doing the route. At the refuge here in La Fouly we sat down with an American couple (Nicole & Shane) we have been meeting almost daily. They are very friendly and they apparently met 10 years ago on a 5-month trek on the Appalachian Trail and now were on their honeymoon. Both of them are in very good shape but Shane is muscular. So much so that when they were posing for a photo at Rifugio Bertone and he flexed I blurted out “Oh god I feel so small” which made the guide standing next to me almost fall over laughing. 

28th – Courmayeur – Rifugio Bonatti

With breakfast being served at 0800-1000 the decision was to leave at 0900, relatively late compared to the previous days. This was probably a good idea as last night’s food festival ended up being a street party and half the group – including the guide – wasn’t back at the hotel until close to 0100. The wooden plate was a glorified ticket; you presented it at a stall, they wrote the stall number on its back (so you could only go to a place once) and you were handed a plate with food. There were 11 stalls and we ended up trying 8 of them; cold cuts, sausage with ratatouille, cheese & potatoes, minestrone, tartar on bread, blue cheese risotto (which was delicious and heavy and you were given a huge portion!), ice cream with liquor and pie. After the stalls starting closing multiple DJs played music throughout the center of the town, though the later it got the music turned more and more into Italian pop.

Leaving a bit past 0900 this morning we walked through Courmayeur and we soon started ascending – steeply. 800 meters of ascent later we reached Rifugio Bertone. They don’t start serving lunch until 1230 so we had half an hour or so of relaxation and enjoying the view before being able to order. Service was slow, but the food was good, so it took almost 2 hours before we were on our way again.

Quick group photo before lunch.

Relaxing with a view.

Leaving Bertone, we traversed with generally gentle small ups and downs on our way until we app. 2 hours after departure arrived at Rifugio Bonatti with a great view of the massif.

The lone walker. 

The rest of the day is/was shower and doing very little.

The relaxing view from Bonatti.

The light at around sunset.

27th – Courmayeur

As this was a rest day we had the day to do what we wanted. A few people went to a spa, others… something… and three of us took a cabin lift up from where we could see the entire town. We found a café and enjoyed a couple of beers and drinks – while staying in the shade as the sun was out in full force – which apparently included chips and a platter of bread, meat and cheese.

The old part of Courmayeur where we stayed.

Coming back down to the town we had a walk through the center and had lunch before returning to the hotel for relaxation.

View of the town from above.

Tonight there is a food festival of sorts in town; 20 euros for a wooden plate and food is free at a number of stalls. Exciting!

No, it didn't feel cheesy at all walking around with a plate around my neck. 

Not at all...

Credit goes to our guide Heather Florence.

26th – Les Chapieux – Courmayeur

Lunch was bought in the shape of sandwiches near the refuge before getting a ride at 0740 to skip a long piece of road and getting dropped off, starting today’s walk. The ride saved us from what would have been a 1½ hours of walking. The drop-off happened around La Ville des Glaciers.

The problem with getting up early is getting up early. 

On the other hand you get to see something like this.

Not long after the start we passed Refuge des Mottes, the place we stayed at my last trip instead of Les Chapieux, and started ascending towards Col de la Seigne at 2516m. While the view was nice the place was also noteworthy for being the point where we exited France and entered Italy. The sun was high though the wind was fairly cold, but with a bit of walking around on the col we found a spot out of the wind and we managed to have a nice break enjoying the view.

Coming down to Rifugio Elisabetta we had our lunch. Luckily we didn’t spend the night here; looking into the dorms the very high capacity they boasted of (narrow beds in a row in 3 bunks) made it feel like a prison camp.

Instead of riding them up they dragged them as it was too heavy. 

Instead of riding them down the dragged them as they didn't feel comfortable.

We continued downwards, reaching a roman road in the bottom of the valley and continued descending for 1½ hours on road. Finally, at the end, we got a bus for 20 minutes which took us to the center of Courmayeur.

  

After having ice cream, we went to our hotel and checked in. Relaxing for a few hours before going out for dinner and returning to the hotel for a drink.

25th – Refuge de Nont Borant – Les Chapieux

8+ hours of sleep did wonders after getting barely any a couple of nights ago. Breakfast at 0730 and with everyone packed we were ready to leave around 0800.

Despite our fears regarding the weather from last night we woke up to a clear sky and plenty of sun. Being in a valley we started in a cool shade but after half an hour’s walk up we ended up in the sun, quickly heating up like yesterday.

From there we had a 4-hour ascent to Col du Bonhomme at 2329m, app 900m above our starting point in the morning. We had a break here with a view to go with it. The clouds were spread out but none of them were giving us any issues though the winds when exposed were quite cool. From there we traversed and continued to Col de La Croix du Bonhomme at 2483m where we had a short 5 minutes of descent to Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme to have lunch.

Group photo after lunch.

After this we had a straight descent to Les Chapieux which took us around 2 hours. Coming back down into the valley there was still a breeze but the wind got warmer and it didn’t feel as cold as before.

We arrived at the night’s stay, Auberge de la Nova, at around 1600. Until dinner at 1900 it was time for relaxation and dinner. The weather during the evening was nice and dry which was comforting as the laundry lines here are out in the open.

According to our guide the following is always served for dinner; vegetable soup, pork cheeks, cheese and panna cotta. So there was much surprise and shock when the main course turned out to be rabbit. Apparently more people than expected had stayed for dinner so they ran out of pork and rabbit was next on the list. There were no complaints heard, though, as it was delicious.