15th – Almost there (Yak Kharka (4050m) – Thorang Phedi (4450m))

Today was not much different than yesterday. We left a bit before 0800 and around 1200 we arrived at our destination at around 4450m, the last stop before crossing Thorong La pass.

After lunch we had a small walk up 100m to prepare for tomorrow and coming back the rest of the day was relaxation and mental preparation.

My oxygen saturation the last couple of days has been between 92-98% - it has now dropped to 85%. Things are getting real. It also feels like I need to drink more, and while I am trying I am not too worried, just a bit (memories from Aconcagua are gnawing at me even if I know it won’t be as bad here).

We will have breakfast at 0400 and leave half an hour later. It might be cold and dark but we will be avoiding the wind that usually doesn’t manifest itself until midday or afternoon. But we need to ascend 1000m and then descend almost 1600m so no matter how favorable the weather turns out it will still be a very long day.

It also helps that our guide, Muskie, told us that around this time and December last year app. 80 people died at and around the pass due to lower-than-usual temps and snow storms.

Frozen waterfall.

We can't have the trip be completely safe!

Small walk up from Thorang Phedi.

Enjoying the view.

14th – Off the road (Manang (3540m) – Yak Kharka (4050m))

The morning started as usual (what a surprise!) and we were soon on our way again, starting with going through town. It was obvious the first half was primarily there for tourists as in the second half the buildings were more packed together and felt more run down. We soon left the town behind us baking in the sun and continued for 4-4½ hours before arriving in Yak Kharka at 4050m. During the walk we got to see several herds of yak and blue sheep. Having done the acclimatization walk yesterday today felt comfortably easy. The constant sun hitting down on us did take its toll.

After leaving Manang we soon also left the road we had been following until this point. Now that we are only following a walking path with no cars or bikes and only horses makes the trip suddenly much more appreciable. Coming higher up out of the valleys the views got that much better, so everything is improving.

In Yak Kharka we had lunch and shortly after we had a short walk further up – following the same route which we will be taking tomorrow – for an hour or so. From the point where we turned around we were able to see Annapurna II (7937m), IV (7525m), Gangapurna (7455m) and Annapurna III (7555m).

It’s amazing seeing buildings on the trail as most of them are built from rocks and/or bricks, as opposed to the houses on the EBC trek which were mostly made from wood. I approve; while it’s less of the simple charm you got from the simple wooden houses, we have less draft and are generally warmer. And here they burn wood and not dried yak dung when going above the tree line.

Blue sheep.

Annapurna II, IV, Gangapurna and Annapurna III. The middle point is part of Gangapurna.

13th – Rest day (Manang (3540m))

One thing to say is that a rest day in the mountains is rarely a day where you get to rest. “Rest day” is short for “we’re staying here an extra day/night so let’s do an acclimatization walk today”.

So the day started as usual, apart from having to pack everything, with leaving the teahouse around 0800 and ascended 400m to Praken Gompa (a gompa is a Buddhist place – or fortification – of learning) at around 3900m. As opposed to every other morning until now we had sun from the start. The ascent was steep so we quickly got warmed up. With 3 small stops on the way we reached the Gompa at 1000. The weather was amazing and the view of the surrounding mountains even more so. With the sun up and not a cloud we really enjoyed the stay at the gompa for around 45 minutes before descending and returning to Manang around 1130.

We visited the local hospital (which is basically a couple of houses with medical staff) to have a presentation on the dangers of altitude and altitude sickness. Nothing I didn’t know, but always interesting being informed that a simple trek in worse case can kill you. Fun!

When we had lunch quite a few of us had yak steaks. While meat is generally not advised due to being transported over long distances without necessary refrigeration, the yak meat in this case is local and almost as fresh as can be. The meat was good; tender and taste like beef.

Afternoon was spent on showering, playing cards, having a walk in town and generally just trying to kill time until dinner.

After dinner some of us went out and tried to photograph the stars. As usual, when high up and without light pollution, we had a great view. We stayed for maybe half an hour before we retreated back into the teahouse.

This happens when you leave your shirt out to dry during the night. It was crunchy.

View from Praken Gompa.

Night shot of the entry portal to Manang.

12th – The slaughter (Lower Pisang (3250m) – Manang (3540m))

Morning and departure as usual. The day’s plan was to walk in the morning and reach Manang for a late (1300-ish) lunch. The walk was relatively unremarkable; a couple of beautiful views of the mountains on the way. The total ascent during the almost 5 hours was no more than 300 meters so it was a gentle trek.

Right before coming into town we saw a field with several small groups of people. Getting closer we saw that they were in the middle of butchering several yaks. This was done for their week-long festival, the Diwali (“the festival of lights”). Had we not arrived during this period we would likely not have seen this.

After lunch we had the afternoon off spent on relaxation and taking a walk in the town. A lot of shops with souvenirs and candy & energy bars, and, to my big surprise, at least 4 cinemas. Not the kind you’d see at home but rather teahouses with room(s) with projectors. The movies are obviously related to mountains; 7 years in Tibet, Touching the Void, Everest and so on. And only few of them not involving some kind of disaster (1996 specifically).

Manang is a natural stop for hikers so there are quite a lot of hotels and shops. What has been surprising for me on the entire trek until now is that almost all houses are made of brick and mortar. It does make sense in a way as we more or less have been following a road up to now so they have the infrastructure for transporting the building material as opposed to the EBC trek where the buildings mostly is pieces of wood put together as everything has to be carried manually after being flown in to Lukla.

Slaughtering a cow. That's the intestines he's holding up.

11th – Continuous ascension (Chame (2710m) – Lower Pisang (3250m))

The day started the same time as usual. I spent most of the night slipping in and out of sleep. When I finally checked the time it was 0500 and there was no more sleep had worth mentioning. Despite the lack of quality sleep today felt fine and I didn’t feel any more than the usual tiredness. Coming out we had a great view of the nearby mountains in the morning light.

We didn’t spend much time in the shade before coming out into the sun for the rest of the walk. The cold breeze was also limited now as it isn’t being channeled the same way as the past days so walking was pleasant – even more so than before. We had a tea break at an apple orchard, lunch break a bit later and arrived at our destination in Lower Pisang in the early afternoon. We stayed the night at a very pink teahouse/hotel.

After a short rest we walked up to Upper Pisang (3310m); spent an hour on the walk where we also got to see a newly built – but not completed – monastery. It is to replace the old due to it reaching an amount of disrepair where it isn’t feasible trying to get it back to past’s glory. Everything is paid by local donations, whether it’s resources, money or 54 days of work you donate.

Morning view.

Leaving Chame.

Yes. The teahouse was pink.

Local kid.

Looking down at Lower Pisang from Upper Pisang.

10th – Gentle ascent to Chame (Bagarchap (2160m) – (Chame (2710m))

We got up and did the usual morning routine and before 0800 we left the teahouse and started the day’s walk to Chame, 17km away.

The beginning was nice and flat but after only half an hour we started a steep ascent – an ascent that covered most of the altitude gain of the day’s walk. Reaching the top around 1030 we had a tea break where we had a clear view of Manaslu (8156m). Continuing we had lunch an hour’s walk later, still having a great view of the surroundings.

After lunch we had an easy 2 hour walk until reaching our destination in Chame. A few mountain bikers raced by and we still encountered the occasional car. It is clearly getting colder, especially when in the shade, but as long as we keep moving it’s entirely manageable. The cold breeze is getting more and more insisting, though.

I had expected the trek to be more like the Everest Base Camp trek than it is. The infrastructure is much more developed than it is going to EBC (it is after all impossible to get cars by plane to Lukla) and we have been passing through quite a few more villages than there, too. This trek doesn’t feel quite as remote as a result.

Plenty of these bridges on our way.

View of Manaslu.

Up we go!

9th – Trekking and hot showers (Syange (1120m) – Bagarchap (2160m))

For the second night in a row I woke up at 0300 and couldn’t really fall asleep again. It was a very long morning, but some extra sleep must have been had as I did get woken up by the alarm at 0630.

Breakfast was consumed and around 0730 we loaded the cars again and drove for an hour to Jagat where we unmounted and started what we came for; walking.

Most of the time walking was spent in a valley which meant that if the sun was not at just the right angle we were walking in the shade. This was at times – especially towards the end of the day – cooled by a breeze channeled down between the two valley sides. Temperature wise things were fine; in the sun it got hot and the shade was not bad at all. It was obviously cooler but never really was a problem as we were constantly moving. The breeze was cold, though, and as soon as you stopped you could easily feel the temperature drop significantly.

We arrived at our destination in Bagarchap around 7,5 hours after departure from Jagat. It was a good day, albeit feeling a bit long being the first day of actual trekking. I would have preferred one a bit shorter for the first day to warm up with, but at the end of the day it felt quite good. The place we’re staying at has hot showers (and they hadn’t run out of hot water when it was my turn!) and real flushable toilets. Luxury!

Tomorrow we will start again at 0630/0700/0730 and ascend app. 550m over a distance of 17 km to Chame. Chame is the main town/city in the region so it will likely be larger than the other villages and towns we have been passing through today.

Walking up through the valley today it was at times possible to see Annapurna II in the distance. Tomorrow will be 45 minutes relaxing walk followed by 45 minutes 500m ascent. From where we end up we will be able to get a better view of Annapurna II, and looking back at where we started a view of Manaslu should also be possible.

Small lizard scurrying away.

The eyebrow'ed dog.

The start to amazing views!