2nd - Summit

Wake up at 0230. Technically not really a wake up as you cannot wake up from not sleeping. Apparently most didn’t sleep much – if at all. Even our group leader (Bo, who has 2 8000m-summits under his belt) didn’t get much sleep, but that was mostly because his tent buddy was snoring (at least HE got some sleep!).

Could barely drink or eat anything for breakfast.

Departure at 0330. Not as much wind as expected, nice. Quite cool, but not cold enough to be a problem.

Starting climbing, out of the wind – nice! Seems like we are staying out of the wind for a while – double nice!

Ok, ok – this is getting quite steep, getting colder, wind picking up.

Not really freezing; occasional cold fingers and toes and once or twice the body gets slightly colder, but all this happens when having our short breaks. As soon as we are moving again warmth returns. Not like Elbrus at all.

Wind picking up, temp feels like its dropping but it’s probably just the wind chill, going through clouds, seeing the shadow of Ararat below us.

Groups leaving 1 and 2 hours before us are maybe ½-1-ish hour ahead of us.

Wind picking up, entering clouds, visibility drops to less than 40m.

Reaching the glacier at 4950m, other groups are returning. Luckily no need for crampons as it has been snowing. Taking the gloves off to attach them would have been hell in the low temps and high winds.

The top layer of the snow/glacier contains hail. Wind was earlier estimated to 40km/h but feels like much more. Visibility still below the 40m.

Wind, temp, (lack of) visibility and the resulting blowing snow/hail made the last 200 altitude meters a massive challenge – not least a mental one. Had to keep up as people ahead tend to fade out – luckily we had a couple of guides as the group was splitting up in two. Weirdly enough I ended up in the front group. Bo was running back and forth keeping track of us and keeping us updated on status. He ended in the back assisting.

Pole on a small hill coming into sight! Give it a final push! Or maybe just continue walking slowly ahead…

Summit! 0815! 04:45 despite planned 6 hours! @5137m.

Windy, cold, can’t see 30m. Clear weather gives a view into Iran and Armenia. Obviously not this morning.

Despite being a photo-op, view or not, I couldn’t bother taking my camera out; too tired, too cold, too windy, and others taking photos.

The last people arrive, some assisted, one stumbling and falling over (who had, he told later, been hallucinating last night – likely because of the altitude. Had we/Bo known of this before the ascent he would not have been allowed to the summit. Luckily no issues despite all this except from having a very slow descent).

Let’s get down! Oh, more photos? Ok, let’s wait.

Now? Awesome – race down the glacier, people constantly disappearing and reappearing ahead.

Getting off the glacier, little less wind, short break and it all feels a little calmer. Visibility already better.

Going down, down, out of the clouds, warmer, still windy but not too bad.

Descending – suddenly back in high camp at 1115.

Short rest, pack bags and tents and depart at 1230.

Back in base camp at 1530. Just a gentle breeze, comfortable temp. An hour later the horses arrive with all our bags and tents, so we start establishing the camp.

Dinner at 1715, and 2 hours later everything is quite.

Close to summit. Photo taken by Bo Belvedere Christensen.

Summit. Photo taken by Jens Gadegaard Jensen

Summit. Photo taken by Jens Gadegaard Jensen