We
started the day with breakfast at 0400 and left at 0430. The estimate was to
make it to base camp teahouse 400 above in 1 hour and the remaining 600m in 3
hours, making the climb 4 hours and following that a descent of 1600m in 4
hours. An optimistic schedule, but no matter how the day would turn out going
up 1000m and down 1600m would make an intense – or at least interesting – day.
While we
were having breakfast the porters where preparing our non-daypack bags while we
were eating (or in some’s case; trying). We left on schedule with the porters but
they soon sped up and went ahead of us into the darkness. The view of the stars
was beautiful, the temperature was probably around -5 – -10, but there was a
chilly breeze blowing.
We
reached BC teahouse at 0545 and after a short break we continued upwards. The
sun started slowly to rise behind the mountains behind us, but the wind also
started picking up. We also starting passing through patches of hard snow and
ice, and I caught myself occasionally missing my crampons. The paths were quite
narrow at times and it didn’t always feel comfortable walking on the snow/ice.
At
around 0900 the first of us (app. half the group of 14) reached the pass. Great
views, sun was out, good temperature but the cold wind was harrowing. We stayed
for a while waiting for the rest, and when arriving it was obvious some of them
were struggling. It didn’t seem to be the altitude that was the issue but
rather the cold. Finding a spot out of the wind would result in an amazing
stay. At around 0945 we left and started descending on the other side. The wind
was unrelenting so even when we got lower and the sun baking it was still quite
cold. After a while, though, the winds died down and we could gradually start
de-layering. At 4200m we stopped at a café – one of the first buildings we
encountered on the way down – to have a small snack (sandwiches, small bowls of
soup etc.) before continuing down. We ended up in Muktinath at our hotel at
around 1500, a bit later than estimated.
The
hotel is called Hotel Bob Marley, and they are playing his music nonstop.
Things could be worse.
The
porters gave our guides a call on our descent and informed them it had taken
them 4:15 to do the same route as us. They made it to the hotel before we
reached the pass. Absolutely ridiculous.
On the
way down we saw 2x2 metal houses, almost barn-sized, with app. 500m altitude
between the two pairs. It is apparently shelters if a storm like the one last
year hits the area. Muskie walked in the back keeping an eye on the rear
(secondary guide Puspa was in the front leading the group) and had a talk with
those with him and pointed out 2 bodies from last year. Despite the
non-technical area there are still un-approachable areas rescue people cannot
access. Welcome to the inhospitable places of the planet where you don’t have a
say in how things end.
To my
surprise there was a kiosk at the pass and also an hour after BC there was a
small teahouse (only with serving, no sleeping). Prices were as one would
expect but it was still weird to see them on the way.
People
were struggling, especially towards the end, and after finishing dinner most
people couldn’t get to bed fast enough. I didn’t feel I had much of an issue –
I felt surprisingly fine. Mind you; I did fall asleep instantly when going to
bed but I didn’t feel the tiredness during the day like others seemed to. My
legs were worn, obviously. It seemed as if some people were surprised by the
difficulty/altitude/temperature which I (still) don’t know how to feel about.
Then again; the last three treks/climbs I did were Stok Kangri, Aconcagua and
Mont Blanc which cater to a slightly different clientele, so having those in
mind this trek seems like a walk in the park (almost), but considering that
others might not have similar experience I can easily see how this trip might
be pushing their boundaries. I have to keep that in mind before being a
judgmental bastard. I was surprised by the snack-/early lunch break on the way
down – I would have preferred a short drink break before continuing down so we
didn’t get too comfortable. Powering on and rest a bit more at the end instead.
I might have been underestimating how much some have been struggling, though. Having
experienced some tough summit days I was expecting to go straight up and down
without too many breaks and them only being 5-10 minutes to get a short rest
and something to drink. So having a drink break sitting down and relaxing for a
while in a tea house on the way up and long break on the way down was a bit
unusual for me.
G
Adventure trips are different than the technical climbs I have been doing and
it being a while since I did a trek with them I need to remember to adjust my
mental approach to things. It’s also confusing because I tend to be among the
last that end up struggling towards the top which wasn’t the case this time.
But to
be honest I like the fact that I for once seem to be the one with the most
mountain experience in the group.
The view at the pass in our walking direction.
The view from the pass from where we came.
A very happy group at the pass.
Emergency shelters.
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